Throttle Pedal Sensor

I couldn't find anyone else having this exact problem/code on here, so I'm starting a new thread on it.

I'm a solid hour away from a "real" Volkswagen mechanic - plus they're only open when i'm at work - so I took it to the local diesel mechanics. They're super nice and probably very good at what they specialize in, but they just don't know Volkswagens.

The code he read off the reader was 228 Throttle Pedal Sensor Circuit High.

He said something about how a gas pedal usually has 2 or 3 sensors and he thinks that wherever I take it may try to (or have to?) replace the entire assembly. Does that sound right? Or is he way off?

Its going to be a big hassle to get my car into the dealership in Fargo, ND to get it fixed, but if thats my only option, I'll get 'er done.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

It's bad. You replace it as a unit. 3 13mm nuts and off it comes. Takes 15 minutes to change. I see this once in a while and it will only get worse to the point where the car will hardly drive.

is it something that i can replace? will i have to take apart the car to do it? Is it under the steering wheel or under the hood?
The car seems to drive perfectly fine, and its been a while since that happened.

under the dash.
pull the fuse cover on the side of the dash.
grab the front edge of the rest of the cover and pull out to remove that.
T20 torx screws remove them.
left side panel comes off under steering wheel.
one more torx screw to remove then right side panel comes off.
slide out under dash panel.
disconnect electrical connection on TP.
18" extension 13mm socket, unbolt pedal.
Reverse this procedure.

DONE.

see? this is why VWs are so awesome. The other VW people.
I'll have a look tonight!

Very easy to replace as Jason explained.

If it completely fails OR becomes unreliable, the ECU will shut the pedal down and default the engine to 1200 rpm idle. This will permit you to drive home. The ECU when you shift will increase rpms to 1400, then after you shift it will settle back to 1200. It will adjust fueling for you so you can idle your way up to 5th gear and limp on home.

Replace the pedal before you get to that point, 35mph max speed is no fun if you are faced with 400 miles between you and home.

DB

what about actually acquiring a new one? Altrom? Thats the only site I know of, its what my old mechanic used to use

edit: ahh apparently they only sell to distributors..

Get with www.worldimpex.com call their 800# and they can send it out next day if needed. I replaced mine 4 years ago it cost 60$ back then. some times they come with the wrong holes drilled out there are four spots and only three are used so one of them has not been drilled ( mine was like this) easy to drill the last hole out and install it.

What is the name of the part?? I can't find anything to do with "throttle" or "pedal" that sounds remotely like throttle pedal sensor.
theres ABS Speed Sensor, Thrust Sensor (doesnt sound like what Birdman described), and nothing remotely relevant if i search for "pedal"

is this it?
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-accelerator-pedal-gas-engine-mtrans_552046.html
edit: no that cant be it, it says gas

Am i actually replacing the pedal itself?

I found this under the "Body Electrical" category...make sure you input your vehicle make, model and correct engine in order to get the correct parts....

EDIT: This part is for an '03 Jetta...but it may be the same for all models/years with the ALH

http://worldimpex.com/search_by_model.html?mode=category_results&year=2003&make_id=1&model_id=318&category_id=1419

2003 Jetta, gas Pedal assembly:


Manual Transmission: 6Q1 721 503D
Automatic VIN range 9M-3-000 001>>9M-3-089 943 1J1 723 503 AD
Automatic other VIN ranges: 6Q1 723 503 D

Good news is that they are all $136.00 so you just need to pick the correct one.

Best bet is remove the pedal and get YOUR part number off of it and order that part. If it has been superceeded, Impex will supply the newest version of the correct part for you car.

DB

Same part for ALH and BEW engines MKIV body (i.e. from 99.5 on to 2005 uses the same pedal assembly). I don't know about this code in particular, but mine was having the p0226 code which is an "mplausible signal" code as opposed to a "Circuit High" code. I didn't want to pay the $140 for a new assembly, so I just took off the cover on the outside of the sensor (It's just a simple potentiometer) and applied a bit of DeOxit to improve the contact between the brushes and the circuit board and everything is as good as new. Haven't had the problem since. FYI, the problem with P0226 is exactly as described by Drivebywire except when you turn off the car and turn it back in it will reset itself and you can drive again.

I see www.1stvwparts.com sells em for $105.12

JDHannan said:

is this it?
http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/genuine-part-accelerator-pedal-gas-engine-mtrans_552046.html
edit: no that cant be it, it says gas

Am i actually replacing the pedal itself?

Click to expand...

__. Give them a call on the 800 number. You'll probably get John or Joey - doesn't matter, anyone there is very good at the kind of help you need.

__. Tell them your Model Year, kind of vehicle (Jetta, Golf, etc.), type of transmission, that it's a TDI. Tell them that you're looking for the "electronic sensor" for the accelerator pedal. They'll fix you right up. Also, they can ship it "Next day- overnight" if you need it that badly.

you will have to cut out a small piece of it, forgot about that. they changed it a while back but still no big deal.

A thought.

How will I know if this is "fixed" when I'm done? Do I have to see if the light comes on again and go get it read again?

The vehicle doesn't "drive funny" now, and i just put 600 miles on it this weekend. Whats the chances that maybe it just tripped randomly?

replacing it fixes the only thing that it could be. random trip could be a complete failure at some point, who knows when.

What am I looking for here?
I think BCD all fit a 13mm socket, but i wasn't able to reach one of them. B & C look more like they're attached to something to do with the brake... maybe they're for both?
I can't imagine trying to actually remove and install something in this tight spot.
Am I going to have to take the entire driver's side of the car apart??

B & C have nothing to do with it. There are the two you can see, A & D and the third it at the top of the photo bu the white piece. It ISN'T that difficult. How would removing the carpet help? It's not that tight....you should try the clutch master.....

i didnt say carpet, i said "car apart"
after i took the several pieces of paneling off, there is some black metal underneath it
should i take that off too?
and again - i'm really replacing the entire pedal assembly?

thanks by the way!!

I'll have to second Jason...I read CARPET the first time through too.

Yes you should be replacing the entire pedal assembly, although I think the actual pedal will need to get transferred (don't you have the new part in front of you). Don't forget to disconnect the electrical connector to the right of C. Just pull out anything that keeps the pedal from coming out.

the WHOLE thing padal and all is changed.

The "has this question been asked before" check worked quite nice actually

I have my pedal assembly in my lap as I type (manual 03 Jetta TDI wagon 112k miles- my part # is 6Q1 721 503 B). My problem is similar (PO228 and PO225 codes via ScanGauge, thrown during rough starting in cold and even cool weather - ever since the TB was changed last winter), but doesn't sound the same - didn't go into limp mode. It either gave me zero throttle response or some. At a steady slow speed my engine just shut off, dash lights flashed, and I was stranded. I can't restart either - had to get a tow, and the car sits in my driveway (and under the constant snow, which is a pain in the butt for working on a car by the way

Question: is there a way to test a combination of the 6 male connector pins to see if the sensor inside is bad?

VagCom did flag a TPS error code that prevented the timing to be checked during a recent troubleshooting effort for the more difficult colder weather starts. VagCom would connect fine when the key was in the "On" position, but not started - but would disconnect when the engine was started. Throttle response did happen check-out fine on VagCom when in "on" position w/o engine running (then again, it either worked or doesn't)

I'm open to any other troubleshooting ideas as well. Here's my summary of what happened recently:

Car was running normally until I was almost home the other night. The engine didn't quite sound right at times on the highway (extra clattery). Then while driving through town it suddenly stuttered and hesitated 3 times in a row within a 2 second span (fully warm at the end of a 45 mile trip), but I was able to drive the rest of the way home without incident - though it didn't sound right at times.

Next trip, I had gotten on the highway and things seemed fine (though the sound wasn't quite right at first when starting). Got on the highway, set the cruise, went for a bit - no problem. Then the sudden hesitation again a couple miles down the road. I got off at the first exit to go back home. Turning off the cloverleaf, there was no throttle response (and equally nice there was no cross traffic to run into me once I pulled out unable to finish the turn under power). From this point on is was hit or miss whether or not me giving throttle would result in any engine revving. I got another couple miles towards home on a 2 lane road, then it just died - engine shut down - dash lights flashing, no power steering, but I was able to coast down a hill and safely turn into an empty parking lot and call for help.

There appears fuel in the fuel line moving when cranking - though hard to tell (I usually have bubbles that won't go away, but when I need them to help troubleshoot, they aren't there

My fuel is treated for cold weather, running regular diesel with Primrose 409.

I wonder if the fuel pump could be to blame - haven't checked this yet. Also read other threads and haven't exposed the ECM to see if there is green corrosion on it yet or not either.

Thoughts?

jasonTDI said:

the WHOLE thing padal and all is changed.

Click to expand...

Click to enlarge

Start with the pedal.

Read the codes though. Sounds like the quantity adjuster in the pump might be gone too or there is an issue with wiring. The wiring can cause all sorts of random crappy wiring. Unfortunately it can be really hard to track down.

I just got informed this part number is now 6Q1 723 503 P !!! Now it is in the car and does not work...I did the programming/step on the pedal thing and it acts like there is no pedal at all now!! What might have gone wrong?

jasonTDI said:

. 3 13mm nuts and off it comes. Takes 15 minutes to change.

Click to expand...

I know this is an old post, but... my 2001 had 10mm-headed nuts... and it took a lot longer than 15 minutes to get at the back (hidden) nut...

Yuri.

ymz said:

I know this is an old post, but... my 2001 had 10mm-headed nuts... and it took a lot longer than 15 minutes to get at the back (hidden) nut...

Yuri.

Click to expand...

YURI, you strike again!
Old post but i dont care, saved me like 2 hours of not taking off the wrong bolts as they described in the picture. For mine it was 3 10mm hexnuts. took it off in about 30 minutes.

Thanks alot! You saved me twice now !
Thanks again for the serpentine belt in Toronto