If I ever buy a salvage yard engine, the first thing I do is ask for the return policy. "No Refunds" means "NO DEAL!". Then I take the head off and inspect. If the cylinder walls don't look good, I return it and save the time installing a bad engine. 180k is not particularly junk, but a lot of bad can happen in those miles.
Pulling the engine is a bear... not much time is lost doing some inspection. There are two reasonable approaches. Like I said, pull the head and look at the cylinder walls. If they are good, check the #1 rod and main bearings. The bolts on the rods and mains are not reusable (torque to yield), but if there is no overheating of the bearings, the only problem you have is a blown head gasket. Fix the head. It takes a rather severe situation for these blocks to be damaged in an overheat situation.
The average 'overheated' head is usually less expensive to rebuild because you usually don't have bad valves. As long as the cam journals are good, it's very straighforward.
I have comprehensive rebuild kits, which I can tailor to your needs. I have every nut, bolt, screw and washer, timing belt kits, pistons, rings, blocks, oil pans... a one-stop shop.
That includes matching bent rods for weight and length, balancing rotating mass, long-block and short block assembly and machining services. And of course, cylinder head work.
I also handle injector service. Flow-rating nozzles in matched sets makes improved performance.