Cyl. head replacement NKY

[longdrive]

This is my last hope for some help outside of taking it to a shop. Can anyone help me replace the head on my 98 A3?

I have been putting this off for several months now. It runs good, smokes and clatters some and there is low compression and leakage thru a valve in cylinder two. Still getting close to 40mpg around town, and mid to high 40's on the highway. My regular mechanic knows much about TDI's and I have no trouble taking it to him other than paying for it.

I have not worked on this vehicle over the past 3 years of ownership other than oil changes, however I have done similar work on toyota 22re engines, so I am not a total idiot. I have a garage, tools, heater, etc.

If no one in the general area is capable or interested I understand, just thought this would be a way to save some dough and learn more about my current ride.

Any recommendations are welcome.

Thanks,

Anthony

 

[dieseldorf]

I believe Bruce is your KY connection!

 

[paramedick]

Yes, I can help you. If you can wait awhile, I have an A3/B4 head off at Frank's being reconditioned.

You would need to have your removed head sent to Frank, reconditioned, and sent to me. Plus labor and parts, of course!

 

[longdrive]

I may need help with the removal and reinstallation. I should have clarified that. Who is Frank? Is that who you recommend does the head work?

 

[paramedick]

Removal and installation of the head is straitforward. Not hard to do. The only tricky parts are absolute cleanliness, and aligning the camshaft upon install. Of course, the tools and ability to do the timing belt properly.

Franko6 is a phenomenal resource for rebuilding TDI heads. He's located in Missouri. Search for some of his threads to see the quality work he does.

 

[Typrus]

I'd say that your biggest concern taking it off is making sure that your IP and crank are locked at TDC and IP in its pin-hole... thing.
You'll have to take off the timing belt, so buying a timing-belt change kit might be wise. TDIParts sells the toolkit, made by Metalnerd. With the crank at TDC, and locked, and the IP locked where it needs to be, you'll just have to line up the cam with the head when you put it back on. Not too tough, as long as you have the tools to lock it. This would be a good time to do the timing belt and water pump as well.


Just my thoughts..

 

[ninedee_golf_tdi]

I had an engine with the same symptoms as you have with the exception of a leaking valve, the problem turned out to be a burnt piston. How did you figure out it was a burnt valve ?

 

[longdrive]

Really? A burnt piston. Ok, someone explain to me what that means exactly and what would be the causation. Symptoms I have and am experiencing:

Rough startup/warmup period of about 15-30 seconds with smoke....
Clickety-clickety of valve (I think) even after warmup.
Drop in fuel economy.

My mechanic performed compression and leak test both hot/cold-wet/dry and said the pressure loss was leaking out the valve, not thru the pan fill tube.

What more can I tell you?

 

[vman858]

Can't ask for much more than this.
http://tdiclub.com/articles/A3-TimingBelt/

Rent the tools from http://www.metalmanparts.com/category.sc?categoryId=9

take your time and ask questions as you go. Or call Paramedick for a turn key A+ job.

 

[longdrive]

Excellent. Thank you, this and my Bentley will be of great help if I decide to go at it alone.