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-   -   New Owner, 2012 Sportwagon... The Journey starts! (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=495251)

KeyTDI December 28th, 2018 17:59

New Owner, 2012 Sportwagon... The Journey starts!
 
Hey TDI Lovers!

Not new to Diesels, as I have owned and driven several across the years.
Current stable, includes a 1984 Mercedes 190D, with 220k miles, and a 2009 ML320 Bluetec, with 67k miles.
I am a handy wrencher, and there is not much I won't tackle.
The is a 5.9 Cummins 12v under my bench that I am rebuilding...

So, we just added a 2012 Sportwagon with TDI/DSG to the fold.

Silver Exterior, Black interior, base model, no sunroof, and 119,650 miles on the Odo, at time of purchase.

I've been looking for a Wagon to replace the 190D for a while, but budget was tight. Need a Wagon for our big doggies and hauling crap around. Have family in Az, and we are in South Orange County, Ca, so MPG was a factor. Looked a bunch of cars, like Subaru Outback, etc, and had a few near misses, but nothing panned out.

Spotted this Sportwagon locally, and the price was good, but i had some issues.

Did my research.

Went and saw it, and although it was a little miley, and a little rough around the edges, it would work for me.
One family owned, kids and dogs, and have averaged 17,000+ per year, which I kinda prefer to a coked up garage queen.

Carfax was checked, service history was a mix of Dealer, and Oil services, I was assured were done, but there were no proof, no receipts to hand beyond what I could see on Carfax.

VW Emissions Update was completed 8/2018, which made me feel better.

Biggest concern was it had had a bout of CEL's that ended in a $2000 replacement Turbo and Intake, I was told.
After that, the owner said CEL's came back.
They were unable to smog, and register it. The Mechanic said it was now due a Major service at 120k(Timing Belt, DSG Service and more).
They guessed that that would be another $2000, and felt they were done putting money into it, and decided to let it go as was.

My Icarsoft MB2 Code reader, read no codes, no CEL and 8 out of 9 Readiness points were done.;)

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pssz6pmjmk.jpg

A test drive revealed nothing but a healthy car, and no obvious issues.

Negotiations started with a very fair price, and ended in a great one.
A bit of a risk, but I felt it was worth a shot.
Money exchanged hands, and paperwork was done, and I drove it away.

As the Smog was a priority, I filled it with fresh diesel(It was on E), and drove it straight to the Smog station.
Still no CEL...
Tech did his thing and it passed!:eek:

Drove it to AAA DMV Locally, paid the back registration, Fines, Forward Registration, and Title Transfer, and it was ours!

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psozy39wsv.jpg

KeyTDI December 28th, 2018 18:10

So, here I am!

The Good:
CA car, so no rust!
No reported accidents.
New Turbo, and Intake.
VW Emissions update done recently.
Drives great, lots of power, feels quick and shifts great.
Lockable roof bars.


The Bad:
Exterior needs a good buff... lots of minor chips, scratches, dings, etc. Rear bumper will need repainting.
Interior is scruffy, and needs some love.
Drivers seat is peeling, worn, and scratched.
RCD 510 Premium 8 CD changer won't load, and throws error.
Shifter and Shifter surround chrome peeling.
Trunk latch broken, and wont lock.
Glovebox latch broken off and missing.

KeyTDI December 28th, 2018 18:32

Starting with the priorities, and questions/Advice requests

1/Lift gate latch ordered from Amazon... $30 copy part that will be here tomorrow. Quick and dirty for now.
I have the spline tool to do it already.

2/ OEM glovebox latch ordered off ebay, for $18 or so.
I don't have the original lock tumbler... its MIA.

3/ Need to prep myself for the upcoming service work:

A/ Kinda looking at changing the oil and was thinking I would use the same oil I have been using in the ML.... Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5-40. The Blackstone numbers on the ML have improved since I changed from the M1 0-30.
Any Naysayers?
B/ Suggested filters?
C/ Suggested Air Filters?
D/ Suggested Timing Belt/Idlers/Waterpump Kits/Makes?
E/ Suggested DSG Service items/kits/Fluid/Filters/Fillers?
F/ Worth putting Magnetic drain plugs in Engine/Transmission?
G/ For 120k Service, I see fuel filters, Cabin air filter, Brake fluid, V Belt, brake fluid, DPF check, etc...

Im wondering what I push back a few months and do over time to lessen my work load.
I am planning a run to AZ in January, which will be a 900 mile round trip... anyone freaked out by postponing all but the Engine oil/filter, and Air filter until after?

I am planning to buy a Diagnostic VCDS or such.

KeyTDI December 28th, 2018 21:58

Anyone suggest a good replacement Entertainment system?
I would like Nav and a Backup Camera.

BarryT82 December 29th, 2018 01:17

I picked up a 2012 TDI in Atlanta yesterday. The front rotors are warped, but I ordered new brakes and rotors last night. I have an RNS-315 and RNS-510 for sale. Both have the backup camera input and nav. The cd changer can be swapped in the radio. That’s typically the issue. Pull out the changer and check the connections on the bottom too. They tend to come loose.

super1 December 29th, 2018 06:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5468803)
Starting with the priorities, and questions/Advice requests

1/Lift gate latch ordered from Amazon... $30 copy part that will be here tomorrow. Quick and dirty for now.
I have the spline tool to do it already.

2/ OEM glovebox latch ordered off ebay, for $18 or so.
I don't have the original lock tumbler... its MIA.

3/ Need to prep myself for the upcoming service work:

A/ Kinda looking at changing the oil and was thinking I would use the same oil I have been using in the ML.... Mobil1 Turbo Diesel 5-40. The Blackstone numbers on the ML have improved since I changed from the M1 0-30.
Any Naysayers?
B/ Suggested filters?
C/ Suggested Air Filters?
D/ Suggested Timing Belt/Idlers/Waterpump Kits/Makes?
E/ Suggested DSG Service items/kits/Fluid/Filters/Fillers?
F/ Worth putting Magnetic drain plugs in Engine/Transmission?
G/ For 120k Service, I see fuel filters, Cabin air filter, Brake fluid, V Belt, brake fluid, DPF check, etc...

Im wondering what I push back a few months and do over time to lessen my work load.
I am planning a run to AZ in January, which will be a 900 mile round trip... anyone freaked out by postponing all but the Engine oil/filter, and Air filter until after?

I am planning to buy a Diagnostic VCDS or such.


I think you need to use Low Ash motor oil, Mobil 1 has it under ESP 5w-30 I think? make sure it is spec for VW
Any of the vendors here will have filters, timing belt kits etc.. of what your looking for
Happy New Year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KeyTDI December 29th, 2018 10:08

Thanks guys!

Barry, thanks for the input.
What is involved in fitting that unit/Units to the 2012?
Does it just drop in and work with all the other VW functions?
Does it need an antenna for the GPS?
What camera does it need?
PM me if thats easier.

Thanks Super,
New here, so will check the vendors her first, but I was as much looking for advice and opinion on the waterpump for example... ifs the plastic one ok, or is it worth going metal...

KeyTDI December 29th, 2018 10:33

On the subject of oil...
I read extensively on the M1 TDT oil, and its 505, not 507 rated.
I've been thru this discussion before, with our ML.

There is a fantastic article out there about Mercedes Diesels and oil written by a Guy up in SF.
He make some VERY compelling arguments about MB approved oils, and I believe what he says there applies very much to the TDI motor.

He basically says that MB is balancing on the razors edge in thier newer Diesels, especially the Bluetec, between protecting the Engine, Emissions, and MPG, and service costs.
The looser in this war is the engine.
It boils the super thin 30 weight oil alive as a result of the high temps needed to burn the diesel and emit low emissions.
The result is oil evaporation, resulting in lubrication failure, and sludge formation.
He points out that this is particularly bad in hot climates...

His argument is what is the most important thing to protect... The Engine or the DPF?

For my part, this has been my experience:
Our ML came to us 2 years ago, with 56k miles from FL.
First oil sample that I sent to Blackstone Labs was MB approved M1 0-30 with about 3500 miles on it.
The big scare was the Iron content at 93PPM.

The next oil, also M1 0-30, with 3800 miles, showed a mild improvement at almost 70PPM.

Then I swapped to M1 TDT, as I figured it will protect the motor better.
Iron dropped off to 37ppm.

I have the second batch of M1 TDT in it now, and am coming up on 3000 miles, so will be watching that next analysis closely.


For those that have not seen it, here is the opinion piece I referred to above.
Everyone who has a later model Turbo Diesel should read it closely.
Notice that it SPECIFICALLY mentions M1 ESP... which is the oil most people are putting in their TDI's.

This one...
http://www.stephensservice.com/oil-r...res-to-engine/

And this one...

http://www.stephensservice.com/bluet...ssuesproblems/

BarryT82 December 29th, 2018 14:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5468948)
Thanks guys!
Barry, thanks for the input.
What is involved in fitting that unit/Units to the 2012?
Does it just drop in and work with all the other VW functions?
Does it need an antenna for the GPS?
What camera does it need?
PM me if thats easier.
Thanks Super,
New here, so will check the vendors her first, but I was as much looking for advice and opinion on the waterpump for example... ifs the plastic one ok, or is it worth going metal...

The radios are plug & play. You add a gps antenna inside of the dash. The camera is $100-110 on eBay and it replaces the hatch rubber button.

KeyTDI December 29th, 2018 21:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryT82 (Post 5469046)
The radios are plug & play. You add a gps antenna inside of the dash. The camera is $100-110 on eBay and it replaces the hatch rubber button.


Sounds interesting.

PM me you details!

SoCalJT December 29th, 2018 22:53

Great to see another local-ish new jsw owner (I’m in Corona, but have fam in OC)... I just picked up my ‘12 jsw manual a couple weeks ago and will start a build thread too... had ~62k miles on it. I also plan to add at least the back up cam, amongst other things already in the works first.

So you’re going m1 tdt oil for the tdi?

KeyTDI December 29th, 2018 23:41

Nice. !

Ordered Mann oil, air, and fuel filters. Also a cabin air filter, and a Continental serpentine belt.
Put a shot of Powerservices Diesel Klean, and a Shot if MMO, as I do every tank on my other 2 Diesels.
Few things I noted today:
Battery is dated 11/2016, so will make a note of its resting voltage as a reference point.
Noted that the battery cover is missing.
Confirm that the intake manifold looks new, and what little I could see of the turbo does too.
Current engine oil level is correct and it doesn’t look too bad.

Yes, I think I’m going M1 TBT oil, as I have 2 gallons in my garage, and I plan to take the car to Az in January.

BarryT82 December 30th, 2018 03:18

I usually buy the Castrol oil at the dealership because they sell it to me at wholesale. NAPA Auto sells LiquiMoly. I had 5 qts of oil left over from my Audi Q5 TDI and picked up a Mann filter at NAPA yesterday. When changing the oil I noticed that it has a new battery, new air filter, and new tires. My car sat for over three years though. The original owner trades it in and it sat until VW issues the stop sale. From there it didn’t get sold until it was fixed a few months ago. So the battery was probably dead.
I need to change the DSG fluid and brake fluid because I’m sure that it hasn’t been done recently. I was cleaning the inside and noticed that the right visor light has had water in it. I pulled down the headliner, poured water in the sunroof drain, and it looks fine. I’ve had to purchase a few small parts on eBay that we’re missing such as the rubber in the cup holders and one of the interior door reflectors. The front rotors had so much rust built up that they’re junk. PowerStop brakes and rotors are on the way.

If you need help taking apart the radio to check the cd changer just let me know. It’s really easy if you have a set of torx screwdrivers.

IndigoBlueWagon December 30th, 2018 03:31

That guy you refer to has opinions not shared by most of the M-B community. I'd be wary of following his advice. Mobil 1 TDT, if it's the oil I think you're referring to, is not low enough in ash to prevent damage to your DPF and Cat. It would be a bad idea. Oils with VW certifications 507.00 are correct. If you insist on running a heavier viscosity oil, you can run Shell Rotella T6 5w40 or Pentosin HPII 5w40. Both are DPF friendly. However, my $.02 would be to run the oil that's correct for your vehicle and has the VW certification.

Welcome to the VW TDI community!

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 05:17

Lucky you, Barry!
I too have a bunch of things Iíd like to replace or find, once my mechanical priorities are done.
That would be great if you could help with the CD player issue, as Iíd prefer to fix it in the short term.
I found a rubber ring under the front seat that I thought might be from the cup holder but wasnít sure.
This is my list so far!
The car is also missing a rubber/plastic piece on the pass/right side front door. Itís on the lower rear edge between the seal seal and door edge. I noticed it as there are a bunch of holes exposed.
I need a drivers seat skin too. The cushion is scuffed, worn peeling on the outside bolster, and the stitching is failing. The backrest has a deep gouge in the bolster. Iíve seen replacement skins for the base on eBay for $170, but not backrest.
Also the lumber support knob does nothing.
Rest of the seats are fine.
The shifter surround satin chrome is scuffed and bubbling, and the shifter knob the chrome is pealing and sharp. The boot is ok.
Iíve ordered a replacement glovebox latch but I donít have the original lick barrel. I reached out the the PO, hoping they have it in a drawe somewhere.
One thing I want is another Remote Key..... only got one.
Can anyone give me the skinny on replacement keys?
I see them on eBay with a key blank but donít understand yet what the deal is with programming...
Anyone?
Car has roof bars attached. There was a pair of keys in the console for their locks but I could not loosen the bolts yesterday. Iím assuming there is another step that Iím missing in the locking mechanism. Will post pics.
Rear tailgate glass has an aftermarket tint, that is scratched, and also bumpy over the heater elements. I think it will have to go.
The car drives great, and the tires have loads of life.
Fronts are maybe 2/3 and rears are 3/3 or close, but both are brands I donít know.
Noticed a slight shudder at about 75 that seemed to go away after a bit, but I have not checked pressures yet.
Brakes feel fine, rotors look ok, and the front pads look to have 2/3 life left, but there is a hint of brake shudder.
The car sat for over a year with little use, so maybe some use will Smooth
it out.
The PO said it was at the VW dealership for ďSeveral monthsĒ alone.
Between my GF and i, we work from home, so we donít do many miles. I think between us, we are about 8/9k a year. Mostly itís been the ML, but the VW will take up some of that because my GF wouldnít drive the 190d, who we affectionally call ďWeaselĒ.
This means the VW will only do 3/4K miles a year, which will pull the mileage back to average over time.
On the subject of oil.
I am aware that the Sprinter guy is not agreed with across the spectrum, but who is!
Oil is and has ALWAYS been a touchy subject with Experts and ďexpertsĒ..
Much of his opinion is based on his experience in the field, tho and that holds merit for me.
I should link my ML thread so people here can see the actual oil reports for the ML and make up thier own opinions.
I am not adverse to Rotella T6, as I use Rotella or Delo conventional diesel oil in my 190 and all my other vehicles.

BarryT82 December 30th, 2018 07:06

You can probably find the shifter console cover on eBay or put some vinyl wrap on it.
Pull out the radio, remove the screw on the top cover. On the sides of the radio you’ll see two screws in the middle. Those four screws hold the cd changer in place. Take off the top cover and pull the changer out. Disconnect the cable on the bottom that connects to the radio and check the connections on the changer.

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 10:36

Thanks Barry, will look at that once I have everything else done.

So, here are some pics...

This is the rear edge of passenger door, where the piece is missing...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszhda65uy.jpg


This is the Drivers door with the part that I believe is missing...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pswbrjavf8.jpg


I think this may be the part... but its $108 and i'm not sure what it does, or how important it is..

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_20...K5831300J.html

This is the scruffy drivers seat....
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psxxmssskc.jpg

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psx9mkm4i7.jpg

And the scruffy shifter and surround.
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psiwarqxfu.jpg

tactdi December 30th, 2018 10:47

That is weatherstripping for the door, you can find that on any 2005.5 on up Jetta at a pick a part yard. Be sure to get all the plastic clips that hold it to the door.
No need for a new part.

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 11:00

So, this is how the Glovebox door latch looks currently...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnc6tnbdp.jpg

I think I found the handle, but i'm puzzled by the lock barrel assembly.
Is this what I have to buy?

https://parts.vw.com/p/Volkswagen_20...7857113JC.html

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 11:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by tactdi (Post 5469264)
That is weatherstripping for the door, you can find that on any 2005.5 on up Jetta at a pick a part yard. Be sure to get all the plastic clips that hold it to the door.
No need for a new part.


Awesome!
Thanks!

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 12:17

Have put 80 miles on it since I bought it...
No CEL yet!
I wish I could say the same for the ML, which threw a Glowplug timer code friday!

VW Engine bay shot...
A little scruffy....
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3o0k4zo.jpg


Note, missing Battery cover.
Should I get one?

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pssgvtsfx4.jpg


New Intake I think...
Do I need to stress about the frayed pipe cover?

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psgirxstnz.jpg

I noted some oil/fuel residue on the top of the motor...
Anyone suggest where this normally come from?

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psx19am2lf.jpg

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psxnlmawoe.jpg

At the back of the engine bay, there is this component..(Note what looks like a new looking Turbo shield below?).

There is a heat cover on the wire or connector, but I could not figure out how it should sit.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psz9jfd9ow.jpg

This is it pulled up and rotated into view.
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3i8ol1oo.jpg

D-Cup December 30th, 2018 15:56

Something I did with my car, you may or may not find it to be beneficial.
I had the timing belt/waterpump, etc done every 110k miles rather than every 120k.
For me there were 2 benefits:
1. Itís free insurance against a timing belt failing early. Thereís plenty of folks on here that have had their TB break 8k miles away from its next service. Maybe not so much in the CR engines, but others. I figure, itís free insurance unless you do 12 of them. But at that point, youíve driven the car over a million miles, so whatever.
2. It spreads out the cost of maintenance.
At 120k, youíre due for your 40k service.
If you do TB @ 110k, thats a 10k service. At 220k, thatís a 20k service. At 330k, thatís a 10k service. At 440k, then you have it fall in a 40k service.
So that may be helpful for some but maybe not for others.
Just thought Iíd share. Welcome to TDI club!

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 19:38

All fair comment.

Anyone tell me what make these roof bars are and/or how to get them off????

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0vjo8ref.jpg

D-Cup December 30th, 2018 19:48

Nice pics.
Battery cover is a thin soft material like the insulation under the hood. I wouldn’t worry about it. I almost threw mine away when I last changed my battery.

Mesh wrapping on that intake pipe is about twice as frayed as mine is. I have 192k miles. I have no idea why though, the only time I see anything contacting it is when I change the oil filter. If it matters, someone will chime in.

Look at the hard coolant return line that runs across the top of the intake manifold.
You’re missing a T30 screw on the left that helps hold that hard line in place.
My worry is vibrations over time causing a failure. May not be a problem if you don’t drive it much. I drive about 1600mi/mo, so I worried about it. (Dealership lost that screw when they replaced my intake manifold).
Side story: I had P2015/P2017 error code. Intake flap position limiter problem. Fixed it with the dieselgeek bracket. Dealership didn’t find that acceptable to do the emissions fix, so they replaced the entire intake manifold on their dime. If you, in the future, experience the P2015 (I think it is) error code, you can fix it with the dieselgeek bracket for like $64 or something like that. Way cheaper than a new IM. You can get them at Dieselgeek.com.

Fuel residue...on the tandem fuel pump (thingy immediately the to left of your timing belt cover) on the anterior side of it, where the fuel line comes out from it and runs to the HPFP. There’s some copper seals that can start leaking. If you have any fix warranty remaining, it’s covered. My dealer replaced the whole pump. If it’s not, I’m told it’s a semi easy fix and just a few dollars for new copper seals.
I just remembered, when the dealer replaced my intake manifold...the tech failed to properly secure the fuel lines coming to/from the HPFP. Oops. Since yours got a new IM...keep an eye out.

If it’s an oil residue or oil leak, I’ll keep an eye on this thread so I can learn - I haven’t experienced any oil leaks at all to date (on this car). Fingers crossed.

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 19:55

Awesome info, thanks!

I found the bars... They are Yakima!
Seems the locks only lock the plastic covers in place.
I have the covers off but the clamping bolt wont move.
A little PB blaster, and some more force will be in order tomorrow!

KeyTDI December 30th, 2018 20:48

So, I need to get moving on this Timing belt project.

Anyone got the Timing belt tools for rent or sale???

Geordi December 30th, 2018 22:02

IDparts.com will sell you the timing tools.

On the oil, of course when you ask 5 people their position on oil, you get 7 different opinions.
First things first: Mobil 0w-30 ESP or European Car Formula is NOT diesel rated! There is no API "Cx" rating on the jug at all. FYI, Mobil 1 TDT is CH-4 rated. No that might not be low-ash enough for the DPF, but I'd rather the engine lasted long enough for that to be a concern.

Chevron has a Delo400 full synth product that is CK4 rated, their bottles pretty much scream it at you in the store. I've run it, seems good enough in older diesels. If I had any around when I changed my oil last week, I might have used that on my 2014. But my DPF also... had an accident. ;) I used TDT.

Don't mess with the DSG oil type unless you have a really good reason, the cost for that isn't bad enough to make it worthwhile. IDparts has a transmission kit, just buy that. The funnel method into the filter housing is the easiest way to fill the transmission, but it does take time. I will be developing an alternative option for that method... Results TBD.

BarryT82 December 31st, 2018 03:40

If you look on eBay there’s a company in Oregon selling the DSG service kit cheap. They have it on their website too. CascadeGerman.com it was $70 on eBay for the fluid, filter, o-ring, and crush washer. I have the fluid install tool from previous cars.

KeyTDI December 31st, 2018 04:14

Thanks for the input guys.

I wondered about the M1 ESP and had a thought that it was not Diesel rated!

No reason to mess with the DSG fluid tho.
Ordered the kit you suggested Barry.

So, back to this timing belt saga.
Looked at all the kit sellers.
How to videos. Have a better grasp of the procedure now.
So, timing and serpentine belt, metal impeller water pump, tensioner, 3x guide pullies, new bolts and studs.
Questions:
How often at the first service do people find the crank seal needs replacement?
Anything else I should have on hand while I’m in there?

KeyTDI January 1st, 2019 08:44

Had rain here yesterday which flagged the wipers were past their best. A excuse to drive to Costco! $18 but two Costco s later I had an 24” and a 19”! When does anyone ever leave a Costco with one item and under $10 lighter.... twice!

Magnetic oil pan plug arrived.

Air and Cabin Air filters arrived. Oil and fuel filters, and DSG kit should be here by Friday.

Do I need to have VCDS program to do the fuel filter???

Ordered the Timing belt kit from DieselGeek, so I should have everything but tool soon.

BarryT82 January 1st, 2019 11:05

You don’t need vcds to change the fuel filter in this car. Just turn the key a few times and the system will fill the canister.

KeyTDI January 1st, 2019 12:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryT82 (Post 5469872)
You donít need vcds to change the fuel filter in this car. Just turn the key a few times and the system will fill the canister.

Good to know.

I have Liqui Moli Diesel Purge, and Diesel Klean on hand... read that I could fill the canister with that and do double duty Clean!

Anyone know if this kit has the tools I need to do the Timing belt?

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Eng...ing+belt+tools

We have a Audi with a TSI in the family too, so i'd like as much specialized tooling as possible!

The only thing I didnt see in this kit was the Cam Counter holding bar for loosening Cam and HPFP pulley.
I have Steel, MiG and TiG, as well as a lathe....

The CD changer is clicking and wiring constantly... even after I take the key out, so thats gotta come out soon!

KITEWAGON January 1st, 2019 13:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryT82 (Post 5469872)
You donít need vcds to change the fuel filter in this car. Just turn the key a few times and the system will fill the canister.

Are you sure? I remember using VCDS to cycle the fuel pump and I thought that it was necessary. But its been years since I changed a fuel filter and perhaps that step was unnecessary.

BarryT82 January 1st, 2019 13:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by KITEWAGON (Post 5469899)
Are you sure? I remember using VCDS to cycle the fuel pump and I thought that it was necessary. But its been years since I changed a fuel filter and perhaps that step was unnecessary.

Yes. Iíve owned a few of these vehicles. With the Audi Q5 TDI I had to use VCDS to refill the filter, but it wasnít a drop in filter.

KeyTDI January 1st, 2019 15:35

Pulled the Head unit out, as the whirring and clicking noise was diving me nuts... well, more nuts!

Took the top off the unit.
Both ends of the ribbon cable seemed attached well...
Disconnected, it from the main board and took the changer out.
I can see at least 1 CD in there, but have not disassembled further.

Questions:
Anyone have any ideas?
Can I put the unit back in without the CD changer inside?

BarryT82 January 1st, 2019 17:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5469917)
Pulled the Head unit out, as the whirring and clicking noise was diving me nuts... well, more nuts!
Took the top off the unit.
Both ends of the ribbon cable seemed attached well...
Disconnected, it from the main board and took the changer out.
I can see at least 1 CD in there, but have not disassembled further.
Questions:
Anyone have any ideas?
Can I put the unit back in without the CD changer inside?

The radio will work without the cd changer, but if you press media itíll give you the cd error. There are a few cables on the bottom of the changer itself. Disconnect those and reseat them.

Geordi January 1st, 2019 18:50

Was the CD in it any good?

Or was it something like "The Greatest Hits Sung By William Shatner"

KeyTDI January 2nd, 2019 15:53

The cables looked fine, but as I have a 200 mile round trip today, I just slipped the unit back into place and, as Barry stated, it worked fine!

My T8 Torx bit grew legs, so I have ordered a new set and will disassemble the CD unit further and see if I can see anything wrong with it when they arrive!
No idea what the CD is... I can only see the edge of it!
Oh, the excitement!

I ordered the Timing tool set as above, and will see what the story is when it arrives.
I can make a cam/HPFP hold tool if I need to.

Seems my oil filters are lagging in shipment, so I have to wait before U start the big service.

Talking of service....
This the the Air filter that is in currently...:eek:
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshum0ceox.jpg

KITEWAGON January 3rd, 2019 06:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by BarryT82 (Post 5469900)
Yes. I’ve owned a few of these vehicles. With the Audi Q5 TDI I had to use VCDS to refill the filter, but it wasn’t a drop in filter.

I'm not arguing with you. I really don't know. But I think I was following these instructions which stated: Unlike earlier TDI, your fuel tank's electric lift pump does not cycle on when you turn the key to "ON". And they show the procedure to use VCDS.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/f...d-audi-a3-tdi/

By the way, OP that site has lots of great DIY tutorials for general maintenance. Its a great reference.

IndigoBlueWagon January 3rd, 2019 06:35

There's a lot of debate about this. I find the procedure with VCDS to be kind of a PITA and I doubt most shops (or the dealer) do it. The pump will run if you cycle the key. I just put in the new filter and fill the canister before putting the top on. I don't think the car is going to blow up.

KeyTDI January 3rd, 2019 07:51

Thanks for the input.
I will refill the canister for sure with something like diesel klean or diesel
Purge.
I think I could maybe pull the rear seat and jumper the pump as it’s so easy to get at.

Service supplies are steadily arriving.
I spent a couple of hours yesterday on some cleaning and repairs. The car is truely filth under the surface. Pulled the rear seats up and it’s ugly under there!
The passthru hatch in the rear seats was not locking. Full
Of sand, grit and dirt. I managed to get it working and latched eventually. Rear seat air vent in the center console is busted. Scrubbed the roof and pillars in the drivers side and after 3 runs the cloth is cleaner.
Tire pressures were low at 28psi all around, so set them at 36.

Did my first good run in the car last night. My home to LAX Airport to pick up our son. About 65 miles each way. One way average at 70-75mph in the car pool netted 47.5mph. After spending 30 miles crawling around the airport and then running back a little harder the display dropped to 43mpg. Still impressive.
Be happier with new oil and filters tho!!!

IndigoBlueWagon January 3rd, 2019 08:13

Keep in mind the FE reading in the cluster is probably reading 5-10% high. You can calibrate it with VCDS.

I can't believe how congested the loop around the LAX terminals has gotten. One recent trip there it took me 45 min to get from the rental return to Terminal 4. Insane.

KeyTDI January 3rd, 2019 08:32

Yes, LAX is a cluster. Adding to the mix last night was 2x FD trucks racing into the mix.

I just use the display as a relative guide. I generally use the brim technique to check absolute.
Our ML 320 Bluetec would have been about 27 mpg on that same run. My 190d would have done about 35 mpg.

Matt927 January 3rd, 2019 10:55

Thought there was a TSB put out by VW concerning priming the fuel filter via the computer after a change. Need to look around for it.

KeyTDI January 5th, 2019 19:46

What is this I found under the seat?
Cup holder thingy?
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjbwbslww.jpg

Been cleaning....
Started at the back...
I think I said this car needed some TLC...

Pulled the rear floor, spare wheel etc...
This is how it looked...:eek:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps0gmpiuav.jpg

Brown stuff is either Cola, or Coffee... either way it was like concrete...
Mixed a gallon of hot water/soap mix and scrubbed... and scrubbed...

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...pswisszypd.jpg

This was up on bulge on the spare wheel well, rear Bumper interface... This is what had fell down from gap in the rear floor or hatch latch...:eek:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psemg4lx4c.jpg

Anyway, no sign of rear end damage!

2 hours later...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps8tknm55a.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqhmabpin.jpg

Spare wheel is good, and I put 36 psi in it.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psmhhg4bdj.jpg

All reassembled!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2uccb0du.jpg

KeyTDI January 5th, 2019 19:58

Worked my way up from there...
The Previous owners were obviously Surfers/Beach goers... the amount of sand in the car is unbelievable...
Its everywhere... and its incredibly difficult to extract from the carpet/trim.
I pulled the CarGo overmat... which was full of sand...
This is it AFTER I vacuumed it 3 times!:rolleyes:

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pssjbmpzbn.jpg

I ended up PRESSURE WASHING it!
You should have seen how much sand came out!

Lookin better!

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psuez74dvs.jpg

The interior was not easy...
I went over it 3x with our house and then my Garage wet/Dry vac... still full of sand...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbabhea6d.jpg

Then I went over it AGAIN with our Bissel Extraction Carpet cleaner...
This was the 3rd pass over the rear seat back, and it was still pulling brown dirt out!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psykfmddxg.jpg

turbobrick240 January 5th, 2019 20:21

Yikes, that spare tire well looked nasty! So much better cleaned up. That round rubber piece goes around the oil fill, right under the cap.

KeyTDI January 5th, 2019 20:29

Tired, and feeling better about the car.... It was time to take stock of the deliveries that were arriving all week.

I THINK this is everything a new owner of a 2012 VW Sportwagon TDI/DSG needs to complete the 120k Service!

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszxkjw4tq.jpg

This is what I got:

For Engine:
2x Mann HU 719/7 Oil Filters(1 for next time). Amazon $26.17 for 2.

Magnetic Drain Plug, 10 washers. Ebay. $13.48
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-14mm-Mag...53.m2749.l2649

1 Gallon of M1 TDT 5-40(I know some will disagree, but I'm not putting a non diesel rated oil in my diesel!). Walmart, about $25.

Mann Air Filter C35154/1. Amazon $16.96.

Mann Cabin Air Filter CUK 2939. Amazon $13.83.

Mann Fuel Filter PU 936/1. Amazon $26.00.

Timing Belt Delux Kit. DieselGeek, $308.96
https://www.dieselgeek.com/collectio...tta-beetle-tdi

Timing Belt Tool Set. Ebay, $54.06
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Timi...53.m2749.l2649

Carbyne 3/8" Drive Triple square Set. Amazon $21.88
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For Transmission:

DSG Liqui-Moly Service Kit. Ebay-CascadeGerman, $79.95
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-VW-DSG-...53.m2749.l2649

CTA Tools 7416 DSG Fill adaptor. Amazon, $20.58.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Slippery Pete 1 quart bottle pump. Amazon, $8.59.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think thats everything I have!:)

KeyTDI January 5th, 2019 20:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbobrick240 (Post 5471299)
Yikes, that spare tire well looked nasty! So much better cleaned up. That round rubber piece goes around the oil fill, right under the cap.


Hell yes... the pics dont show how nasty it was!

Thanks for the info on the rubber bit!

turbobrick240 January 5th, 2019 21:05

That motor oil will work just fine, but it isn't a 507 rated oil like VW specifies. Mobil1 tdt is 1% sulfated ash, and 507 has a .8% limit. It's also a bit thicker. Personally, I'd use it, but thought you might want to know. Nice parts stash!

KeyTDI January 5th, 2019 21:09

Thanks, I was aware.
I have that oil on hand as I use it in our ML320 Bluetec.

My only concern about using that oil is:
If I use it, is there any way it impacts the Emissions/HPFP or any other extended warrantee at 120k plus???

turbobrick240 January 5th, 2019 21:18

That's the crux of it. Extremely unlikely it would become an issue, but if you can use the TDT in your Mercedes, that would be the easiest solution. You could pick up 5 liters of a 507 oil, and not have to worry about it

Geordi January 5th, 2019 22:22

Or make the emissions problem go away... ;)

You may want to look at the Chevron Delo 400 full synth, it is a CK-4 rated oil which absolutely is dpf-friendly and fully diesel rated. I don't know if it has VW's magic numbers, but if the ash is the only issue with Mobil 1 TDT or the Delvac ESP options... At least you know and can look up the specs.

There's no way I would put a 30 weight (what VW suggests) into my engine for 10k miles... Just asking for wear issues, especially in Florida heat.

turbobrick240 January 6th, 2019 03:16

The 507 spec is actually a very good diesel rating for light diesels like our cr tdi's. It's near the thick end of the 30 weight range. Many 507 oils like Mobil1 5w30 ESP also carry Mercedes and other diesel ratings. 507 is what most owners use, and I really haven't heard of any worn out CR tdi's yet.

BarryT82 January 6th, 2019 04:53

I changed the fuel filter last night and I’m changing the DSG fluid today. I don’t see any brake fluid in the picture.
I got that same cabin filter at Advance Auto for $6.74 after the 25% coupon they had on their website.

KITEWAGON January 6th, 2019 05:48

I didn't add up your Amazon prices, but IDparts.com has filter packs where everything you need is packaged. Easy to get exactly what you need.

I'm curious what this wagon cost in this condition. Great project to bring it back, but certainly a lot of time going into TLC going into this one. Threads like this one with lots of before and after pictures are great.

turbobrick240 January 6th, 2019 09:08

I just read the entire thread and see that the oil discussion already came up. Using a CK4 rated 5w30/5w40 oil won't hurt anything(other than the warranty), nor will a 507 rated oil. The timing belt interval is actually 130k miles, so you don't have to feel pressured to do that immediately. All of my old timing belt components looked/performed like new when I did mine.

Geordi January 6th, 2019 10:58

I'm glad to hear that there is some leeway in the timing belt interval - My JSW has 166k on it right now, and I do not know (yet) whether it got the service or not. Mine had been a company car and other than the mileage, was in damn near mint condition when I bought it... For $6k. It was dealer maintained and the Carfax records show the same dealer doing service right at every 10k and every 6-8 weeks for just about the entire history.

I've since put about $2000 into it for upgrades and maintenance - but I still feel like I am ahead of the curve for what the same car was selling for in Florida. But I don't have a record of the timing belt. Bleh. Once I get the title, I plan to see if I can get a dealer to cough up the actual service history to see what was actually done beyond what the carfax basic info says.

KeyTDI January 6th, 2019 13:09

Oh, looks like I screwed up slightly... I could have sworn Timing belt was 120k!

That works, as I have a 1k round trip to AZ this month, and we have rain forecast on and off til then!

I will do Oil, and filters, tho as well as trans service before I go.
As stated, I have the M1 TBT oil on hand, and being in CA, I would prefer that 40w rating for the summers here, as well as our regular runs to AZ.

One run to AZ, it was 125F, across the Mojave, and we were running 5 up, with about 1100lb in people, and full luggage for a wedding in Sedona, in our ML320 Bluetec, at 80+mph. It never missed a beat, ran tirelessly, with the AC blowing ice cold, and did 25 mpg average. I can only imagine what the engine compartment temps were!
That's when u need that safety margin with a good oil!

This is it.
It came to us from FL, and it too, came with work needed.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pskakkgc6g.jpg
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...pse3mgovja.jpg

One of my favorite moments from that trip, was that 3 of my passengers flew in from the UK the night before, and were jetlagged and sleeping in the back. My sister, woke up and commented that she was a little cold, and could I adjust the temp up a little, as her legs were icy... I told her to feel the window, and she was shocked and a little disoriented by the fact it was so hot. I popped her window down a inch and the 125f air came in, and swirled around, causing her to catch her breath, and look at me wide eyed!:D

Last trip out there in the ML, we almost cracked 30mpg.
Can't wait to see what the VW will do!

On the subject of these cars prices...
I have been looking for a while...
Here in CA, a 2011 and up Sportwagon with TDI have been pretty consistently $7500 up, topping out around the $13k for newer cars with lower miles.
That would be for a Smogged, Tagged, Serviced car.

This one was not....
No Smog, or tags, back taxes outstanding, spotty service history, kinda dirty/scruffy, and will need the rear bumper repainting, and some maybe PDR work.
Also, they knew the service was due.
Took the risk, and we will be about half that, so i'm comfortable, but there is always a worry that something will pop up and bust the budget!
I actually would have preferred a stickshift car, as I believe I would have been able to flat tow it behind my Motorhome.

This is my Baby...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps269a7e8e.jpg

turbobrick240 January 6th, 2019 13:37

125į, wow! I don't think I've ever experienced that outside of a greenhouse or sauna. That's a beaut of an RV(Mercedes looks nice too). What's the powerplant? Big ol' Mopar 440?

KeyTDI January 6th, 2019 13:45

The Motorhome is a 1984, based upon a Chevy P30 Step Van chassis. Think Food truck. Powertrain is Chevy Big Block 454/7.4L with a 3 speed TH475 HD trans.
I have a Cummins 5.9 12v Diesel under my bench as well as a 4L80e OD Trans too...

The VW is planned to replace our old Range Rover and my 190d as my DD, Doggie and Junkyard car.
I need something that can carry tools, and the like, and also be safe and economical.

BarryT82 January 6th, 2019 17:24

The DSG service is easy, but time consuming. I did mine this evening. I had always filled it from the bottom using the fill tool, but decided to try it from the top this time and it was much cleaner. AutoZone sells a FloTool funnel that fits perfectly in the hole below the filter. Insert the funnel and fill with DSG fluid.

KeyTDI January 6th, 2019 20:28

Cool.

So, you pulled the drain plug and plastic 'Level Tower", and allowed it all to drain. Then replaced, and filled from above?

KeyTDI January 6th, 2019 20:57

A couple of interesting items...
Previous owner said the car was throwing CELs and couldn't be smogged...
This was when I'd owned the car about 24 hours... maybe 5 starts...
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...psw1jyjzyg.jpg
I also found this one... which I am a bit concerned about but might be nothing.
https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...pscrnvqzss.jpg

KeyTDI January 6th, 2019 21:01

Also, can anyone tell me what was done at the Recall?
Egr was changed/Replaced?

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...pskppmjkmb.jpg

And this is the state of the rear bumper.
I want to have it repainted...
Anyone give me an idea of price and how this silver paint match goes??
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfjuqw3oo.jpg

BarryT82 January 7th, 2019 05:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5471598)
Cool.
So, you pulled the drain plug and plastic 'Level Tower", and allowed it all to drain. Then replaced, and filled from above?

Thatís correct. It was much cleaner. If you fill from the bottom make sure that the car is running when you remove the fill hose. If itís running only the excess will come out. If itís off it makes a loud fart sound and craps fluid everywhere.

Dwagen January 7th, 2019 10:11

Painting Rear Bumper
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5471600)
And this is the state of the rear bumper.
I want to have it repainted...
Anyone give me an idea of price and how this silver paint match goes??
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfjuqw3oo.jpg

If you're not uncomfortable with the idea of painting the bumper yourself using aerosol cans, Automotive Touchup is pretty reputable. A lot of technique is involved though in fading the color to ensure the color blends in with the rest of the vehicle. http://www.automotivetouchup.com

You could also simply replace your rear bumper with the Votex one, which looks really good ($260) and have it painted or paint it yourself: https://www.optikwerks.com/Sportwage...per/index.html

Then sell your old bumper on Craigslist :)

KeyTDI January 7th, 2019 10:35

Nice links, and info, Thanks!

I might take a shot at painting it myself, as I have a compressor and paint guns.

Geordi January 7th, 2019 18:58

You don't need a compressor and guns - Your car is Reflex Silver, the same color that VW has been using for about 20 years. There is very little fading that takes place in that color, I have the same color on my car.

Your results will depend on two things, your prep and your spraying environment.
You can get all the cans you need (probably 3-4 12 ounce cans) at Advance Auto or most likely the other chains. You want the "Perfect Match" type or Dupli-Color.

For prep: Make that thing SMOOOOOOOOOTH! You can use 2000 grit to polish it up, but if that picture is showing the clearcoat delamination I think it is, you will probably want to start with some 500 grit and just work your way up. You can't make it too smooth, any lines or surface height changes will stand right out.

Painting - Take the bumper cover off, and work in a garage or large shed. You want something with a large enough air volume that you don't need fans or an AC system running, you want the air settled. The cover will be much easier to work on a set of horses or something similar to stand pointing the ceiling.

Go slowly, and paint LIGHT COATS from about 6-8 inches away, moving the pattern at about 4 inches per second. Overlapping horizontal passes will be OK, same for vertical, doesn't really matter with light coats. There is an advantage to doing it this way also: You will automatically feather into the existing paint if you didn't sand the whole thing, and it will be really hard to see the overlaps once you have about 10-15 coats down. Yes they will all be REALLY REALLY light. You can add the next coat after about 20-30 minutes (longer if it is really humid) until you are satisfied with the color.

Then you have to do the clear coating. These paints need separate clear coating, and this is the tricky one b/c I've found that it likes to be a heavier coat to end up looking "wet" when it is done. You may want to paint the entire bumper with the clear, to avoid any places having obvious clear coat overspray standing out.

If you brought the cover to a body shop for this, they would probably be about $350 for the work, but then they also have a pretty decent idea of what they are doing. I've done some decent bodywork in the past, but getting the paint right is a bit of an art. I'm decent, but my first couple times were pretty rough.

bizzle January 8th, 2019 00:55

I don't tend to get paint fade, but I do get clear de-lamination on my cars. Any advice for fixing the clear coat?

KeyTDI January 8th, 2019 06:26

Thanks for the input!
You answered my question about color fade, and more!

I have a very large skill set, and tool collection. Painting is something I’ve been around a lot of, but not done myself for many years. Maybe this will be my first large project!

Did a 60 mile round trip yesterday, and am getting a feel for the car. 52.2 mpg one way, and after 3 stops and some town traffic, my trip average was 46.1 mpg. I drove at about 60-65mph.
The visit to the VW Dealer inquiring about service history was interesting to say the least. Not everything I was told about the car was true, but then I was expecting that! The Service Guy was helpful and whilst I didn’t get all the facts there is history that I found interesting. Turbo was replaced, as well as intake, and maybe the egr. I also found out that the AC compressor was replaced too
All good info.

When I got home I got a wiff of oil smell.
Upon inspection, I found a puddle of oil on the top of the valve cover. I had not looked at that since I noticed something there before. A quick search says the oil filler cap tastier could be the culprit,and sometimes flipping the gasket can help. I cannot see a gasket on the cap, so maybe that explains it!

KeyTDI January 8th, 2019 08:11

Maybe it’s me....
I have spent some time trying to understand the VW Emissions fix.
Where can i actually find out what was done or replaced?
Software was changed, I get that, but what else was done or replaced?

KeyTDI January 8th, 2019 09:32

While I was looking at that oil leak yesterday, I spotted the remnants of the piece of foam that covers the black fuel return lines at the back of the valve cover.

I cannot find it in any VW part diagram...
Anyone tell me a part number or name for it, and can I buy it somewhere?

You can see the part i'm missing in the first pic in this overview of Injector replacement. He refers to it as "The Grey Styrofoam Damper".

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/f...-0-tdi-engine/

bizzle January 8th, 2019 11:33

I didn't even notice you were in Irvine but...are you an Anteater? :)

I'm from San Diego area but up in LA right now. I'll be meeting some friends in Newport Friday on our way back home. If you're free and you want to line our 2015 alongside your 2012 wagon we can meet up. I used to have a 2012 JSW before the buyback, too, but I don't know if I'd be able to recognize something amiss. I also have my VCDS in my trunk kit if you want to do any testing/tweaking.

Now about that paint skillset and tools of yours... ;)
(I have a delaminating spoiler on my 98 beetle)

I'll also be back through the area during Chinese New Year. If you need to do an engine or DSG oil change, let me know. I have the tools to make those jobs easier, as well.

KeyTDI January 8th, 2019 17:58

Thanks for the Input Bizzle!
Not actually in Irvine, but close!
Not an Anteater... But we have a house full of Bruin's, one of those is working toward An Anteater Graduate Program..;)

Did the Engine Oil, Filter, Fuel filter, air filter, and DSG service...
Exhausted, but will report back in a bit!

Geordi January 8th, 2019 18:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by bizzle (Post 5472004)
I don't tend to get paint fade, but I do get clear de-lamination on my cars. Any advice for fixing the clear coat?

It depends on where on the car... There's not a lot you can do about it if you can see it and feel it. If you can only see it but it isn't actually separated and breaking down, then it likely is just a defect in the paint. You can TRY spraying color over it and clear on the entire panel... BUT no guarantee if the defect is actually that the clear had separated and "blistered" away from the color. That's a factory paint job that wasn't good. There were a LOT of cars like that from the 90s, I think there was a chemistry change in the clear that just made them go to crap.

If you want the best results, it will mean painting the entire panel (because feathering is really hard to make invisible) after doing all the same prep work of sanding the crap out of it until you are sure you are looking at a solid base. You don't need to go through to the metal, and factory coats are SUPER thick anyway. Just get into the color and smooth it out, then re-clear and you should be OK.

KeyTDI January 8th, 2019 18:54

Those of you who are puzzled by my "Skill Set", should look at my thread over on GJ...

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=403443

bizzle January 8th, 2019 20:33

The clear on my factory spoiler on the beetle blistered up and peeled away from the white paint underneath.

KeyTDI
Keep my info tagged somewhere and let me know if you ever need anything. I have a VCDS and travel through OC frequently.

Geordi January 8th, 2019 21:47

Just on the spoiler? If you can remove that from the car, it will be a lot easier to work on. You'd need to sand it down to get all the loose / blistered clear off, and then when that is completely smoothed out you can re-color it (probably will be needed) and re-clear it until it looks great again. Individual pieces are a lot easier to do than a panel like a rear quarter where there aren't any nearby boundaries.

bizzle January 8th, 2019 21:49

Yeah, just on the spoiler. Thanks for the advice!

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 04:17

So yesterday was a full day.
My driveway is sloped, so that made the task trickier than normal.

Lifted the nose of the car a little to get at the undertray.... noticed the chin spoiler is MIA...
Undertray is also missing about half its screws.
Signs of oil leaks from engine and trans.

Drained the engine oil, and replaced the filter. No issues. Oil looked and felt ok. Took a sample for Blackstone to analyze. A close inspection of the drain pan, revealed nothing odd. No junk or metallic particles.
New filter, magnetic drain plug and a gallon of M1 TBT oil in.
Cleaned up the top of the engine, and found I do have a gasket on the oil filler cap, but it’s marked and pitted, so I flipped it.

Pulled the air filter housing, battery, and tray to get at the DSG filter. That looked darker than some I have seen but not serious. Pulled the drain plug, and snorkel and the oil drained out. Again, dirty, but no metalliccparticles or anything worrisome.
What was a little odd was I only got about 4L out.
Ended up using the top fill method, and put 4.6L in.because of my slopped drive I did not do the overflow at 35c procedure, but I will in a day or so. Not going far until then.

Battery hold down and bolt was MIA. Battery was tested and found to be 90% capacity, at 12.7v. I put it on charge in repair and desulaphate mode for a few hours and it was 100% when I put it back in. Will be watching it.

Cleaned and replaced the air filter housing, and replaced filter.

Pulled the fuel filter, and that looked old. New one went in, with a shot of MMO and refilling with Diesel Klean, to the brim.

Engine started first time, and did not miss a beat even tho I didn’t prime with VCDS or anything.

All went well, and I feel better knowing I just established my baseline with fluids and filters.
Whilst found nothing scary, I have a few more items to fix!

bizzle January 9th, 2019 04:23

Did you do the brake fluid? That's on a two year interval regardless of mileage and would have fallen in this year if it was done according to schedule (first one at 3yrs, 2 yrs thereafter).

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 08:10

I did not do that yesterday, but will do it in the next week.
Still have to do the cabin air filter too.

I really would like to find someone who has the 2 micron fuel filter kit for sale.

bizzle January 9th, 2019 09:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5472474)
I really would like to find someone who has the 2 micron fuel filter kit for sale.

Why spend money to protect VW from their own mistakes? The HPFP is covered under the extended warranty.

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 09:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by bizzle (Post 5472502)
Why spend money to protect VW from their own mistakes? The HPFP is covered under the extended warranty.

I thought it was 10 years or 120,000 miles.... and I will crack that by the weekend.

If not, can you update my knowledge!

bizzle January 9th, 2019 09:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5472508)
I thought it was 10 years or 120,000 miles.... and I will crack that by the weekend.
If not, can you update my knowledge!

Well I'm certainly glad I didn't post the warranty numbers because I just double checked and your 2012's warranty extension is in fact shorter than my 2015's, however, the good news is that you should still have plenty of warranty left:
Quote:

The greater of:
 10 years or 193,000 km, whichever occurs first,
from the vehicleís original in-service date; OR
 4 years or 77,000 km, whichever occurs first, from the date and mileage of the completion of
the emissions modification.

KITEWAGON January 9th, 2019 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5472508)
I thought it was 10 years or 120,000 miles.... and I will crack that by the weekend.

If not, can you update my knowledge!


Yes, but its also 4 year/48k miles from the date of the emissions repair. So I suspect you have lots of HPFP warranty remaining.

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 10:20

Awesome!

Geordi January 9th, 2019 16:17

Yes, every vehicle will have AT LEAST 48k / 4 years from the date of the emissions repair... So that means my 2014 is covered until 2022 or 208,000 miles. That is a hell of a long warranty for any vehicle. The downside: You are then forced to trust that a dealership knows what they are doing and does the repair correctly. I don't know if I have that level of trust.

I'd have to restore my parts that "accidentally" fell off if anything happens, but that's an issue for another day. Those parts are all carefully contained in case that happens. I'd be interested in the 2 micron filter set too - b/c if there IS a failure, it spreads contaminants through the entire fuel system and that seems to be something to avoid, eh? Much easier to replace the fuel pump and NOT have to replace everything else everywhere...

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 18:51

Living in CA and having to Smog the vehicle every other year, I am unlikely to make any changes to the hardware of the vehicle.
I am happy with the performance and MPG so far, altho a tune that gave me power and MPG would be tempting...
I cant seem to post pics from my phone, so here are some from the service yesterday..
.
Oil filter and Oil...
I don't know how long this has been in there, but as I have a regime that has served me well, over the years.
Popped the filter top off, and allow that to drain to the oil pan.
Pulled the plug and allowed that to drain for maybe 2 hours while I was busy with the other items.
Carefully/slowly tip the drain pan into my waste oil container...
This skims the oil from the top down.
This means that any solids, metallic particles or shavings that drained out of the engine, and sank to the the bottom, stay they for inspection.
This allows me to visually and physically inspect what left when I'm down to the last 1/4" of oil. You can see and feel anything that is left that might be n issue or concern.
There was nothing in this oil, which pleased me.

This is what they looked like.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2qeennzw.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pszoot2vma.jpg

Engine oil sample went out this morning to Blackstone Labs... it will be interesting to see what they say.

I commented that there was evidence of oil leaks from the motor...
This is what I saw...

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfb75vu3v.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psbnkmazkp.jpg

Evidenced by belly pan.

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4qkgsip9.jpg

New filter, new Drain plug, scrubbed and cleaned belly pan, and oil pan, as best I could, so I will be able to see whats leaking next time.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pswbbhbrbo.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psnac3qt0x.jpg

https://i135.photobucket.com/albums/...pskfeuldit.jpg

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 19:10

While I was under there, I pulled the Intercooler pipes and checked for moisture as I had seen somewhere...

Passenger side had maybe an Ounce or so, and the drivers side, nothing.
Both felt "Slimey" inside... not sure if that's normal or an issue.

Then moved on to the DSG service.
After removing the Airbox and Battery tray, I pulled the filter out.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdknavfen.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps2fldv4rq.jpg

Fluid was darker than I'd liked to see, but I dont have a reference point.

Is this about normal for 120k assuming it was done at 80k... of does it look bad?

For the record, I've put 300 miles on the car in the last 10 days and its shifted just fine... no issues I seen, felt or sensed.

When I drained pulled the drain plug and snorkel thingy I think I only got about 4 L out.
Also may have a leak on the transmission side... which might explain that.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pstselrx2g.jpg
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjdea5qww.jpg

Geordi January 9th, 2019 19:10

I understand about Cali - that's a tough one. I don't know if Malone tuning clears the readiness or if there would be any significant change to the tailpipe profile - BUT I do suspect the mileage numbers have been severely affected. I haven't yet gotten to do an actual mileage run with mine post-adjustment (mine, not VW's) so I don't have a large sample set yet... BUT if the engine computer and my scangauge are being accurate, the mileage is now north of 50mpg at 80mph where before it was a calculated 37mpg at 80mph - and that was for an ENTIRE tank, on an 800 mile journey the day I bought it. Filled the tank right to the lip, and then filled it again right to the lip when it was nearly empty. The dash and my scangauge said 37mpg, and so did my math.

So if the dash is still accurate.... 52mpg at 80 is a STRONG argument for "hitting a pothole" that causes the DPF to have an accident. You might want to look into registering it out-of-state with an LLC or something... Someplace that doesn't have those draconian checks. Burning 40% less fuel certainly would make at least 40% less emissions!

Geordi January 9th, 2019 19:14

On the DSG - when I did mine at 165k, the fluid came out dark honey color, not pure black like the oil.

I filled from the top and just put a full 5 liters in - I'm from the school of thought that too much is less bad than not enough - but half a liter isn't that much extra anyway, not like we are filling the casing with 4 extra (and I've heard of places that did that!) but the owner that reported that, had driven on it for at least a bit with it double-filled... So obviously the DSG can handle a bit more than expected.

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 19:22

I hear ya on the Smog issue.

CA smog test for this car is "Interesting".

My 190D has no smog requirements, so I just pay registration every year, and that is that.

Our ML320 and this TDI looks like the same test, and this is the procedure from what I've seen, and know.

1/ Cycle Ignition key to see if CEL lights(To be sure the bulb is not out or disconnected)
2/ Plug Scanner into OBD2 port and check for codes and readiness.
3/ Visually inspect engine bay for anything unusual or mods.
4/ Rev the engine several times for visible or excessive smoke.
That's it.

Much less to it than a gasser, for sure!

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 19:27

Yes, I would say my DSG fluid was dark Honey colored.
Nothing like the engine oil for sure!

I put about 4.5L in, and will check it again...

Used the top fill method.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psgzswrusp.jpg

I put all the Battery tray and airbox back, with a new air filter.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psng7zkefc.jpg

The I did the Fuel Filter.

Like I said, no issues. Filled the housing with Diesel Klean and a shot of MMO.
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pshmbicjip.jpg

It was looking nicer after a good wipe down!
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pspjh8ztqj.jpg

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 19:32

Now, on the subject of DPF and the like...
I had a crawl around underneath...

Can anyone give me an opinion of how this looks?
New stuff maybe?

Rear of engine looking up...
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...pswv2bnczs.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psiouah0we.jpg

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q...psd8jddip8.jpg

SoCalJT January 9th, 2019 19:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by KeyTDI (Post 5472740)
Now, on the subject of DPF and the like...
I had a crawl around underneath...
Can anyone give me an opinion of how this looks?
New stuff maybe?

Most of that is new from the recall update right?

Who needs it anyway? :D

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 21:56

As I said before, I have no idea what was replaced during the emissions fix, or before.

There are many thing I would like to do, but the reality is I will just have to bring the service, and cosmetics up to acceptable first

Oh, that Styrofoam fuel rail cover/damper, that mine is missing?
Not available I’m told! Ugh.

bizzle January 9th, 2019 22:58

Not to belabor an unnecessary point but it if you install an aftermarket tune in your car and VW sniffs it they will permanently flag your VIN as TD1, which will render the warranty void. I brought this up because I don't know how effective removing hardware is without a corresponding software tune and that's a consequence worth knowing ahead of time.

KeyTDI January 9th, 2019 23:10

Thanks.
Yup, like I said, not much interested in getting crazy with this one. I’ve had my days running tuned cars, and now I’m within sight of 60, I doubt I will again!
More interest in mpg than mph these days.
I have my eye on making sure everything is ready for a 800+
Mile round trip to Az next week. I’m wondering what mpg I will get. 75mph feels about right on that run.


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