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-   -   Clutch slipping (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=495637)

Kamp_92 January 11th, 2019 16:58

Clutch slipping
 
A few months ago I bought a 2012 Jetta TDI 6 speed. It was one of the buyback cars. Had 108k when I got it. Up to 111k as of today. I searched on the forums and it sounds like the clutches normally go 200k+. My car is bone stock and today it started slipping.

Any input? How long can one limp these along for? I eventually planned on egr & dpf delete and probably the stage 2 Malone tune. I had planned on waiting another year to do that, but if one has to drop the sub frame and pull the trans to change the clutch maybe itís a good time to do everything at once.

Looks like about $1200 for a decent clutch with SMF conversion. I would think that would outlast the car.

Any input on a good clutch to get or how you would go about this situation is appreciated. Also havenít decided if I want to tackle it myself (also not sure where I could take it to that works on VWís)

Ol'Rattler January 15th, 2019 13:57

Somebody probably learned to drive a manual on it before you bought it. I have heard of people burning up a clutch in 20 (twenty) miles. He must have thought that slipping the clutch would save him from having to shift.

I have also read here on this forum the 6 speed syncro's get beat to death with a SMF conversion.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/search.php?searchid=19083954
http://forums.tdiclub.com/search.php?searchid=19083964

I do not have any first hand experience with the 6 speed manuals, just the older 5 speeds which do take well to a SMF.

Slurry Pumper January 15th, 2019 15:04

I changed to a SouthBend SMF clutch when the original dual mass died do to the masses not moving in a synchronized way at about 125K o nthe clock. Basically causing a shutter off the line. At the time amazingly the EGR, and DPF just fell off the car, so I got the Malone stage 2 with the rawtek exhaust. Afterwards, after around 45K more in milage, the tranny wouldn't allow me to shift into 1st gear. I was lazy and didn't fix that for another 15K in mileage. During the time, the SMF make noise and I still believe that the clutch was slightly engaged when in neutral causing a premature failure. There have been allot of problems with the SMF style of clutch that have been documented on this forum.

I eventually got a more stout throw out bearing, along with a fluid dampener, resurfaced the clutch, then got a stage 3 tune when I replaced the turbo with a larger version. This all happened around 110K ago, and it is still working flawlessly. It will probably die tomorrow now that I'm mentioning it. The fluid dampener has made a large difference in the shaking at around 2100 RPMs, and the new hydraulic throwout bearing seems to keep the clutch from making the rattling noise that when listening to it, you just know that it isn't good for the car.

Slurry Pumper January 15th, 2019 15:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ol'Rattler (Post 5474459)
I have also read here on this forum the 6 speed syncro's get beat to death with a SMF conversion.

I almost forgot about the new rebuild of the synchros. I assume this was because of the shaking going on with the SMF clutch and the throwout bearing maybe not totally disengaging. Take care in getting a SMF clutch, there are several other things I would get along with it to help some of the other problems that come along with it. I think I solved my issues, but if you search and read around the forum, it is pretty common occurrence that the new clutch will give you some issues.

Kamp_92 January 16th, 2019 12:13

I did some more research and several have told me to stay DMF but replace it with the clutch. Now it’s deciding which one to get I guess. Probably wait on the tune and DPF / EGR for now.

Slurry Pumper January 17th, 2019 12:23

Its been a few years, but at the time, I couldn't find a DMF clutch that could withstand the increase in torque from the stage II tune. Having gone with the SMF clutch, I learned several lessons about how modifications effect the entire system. I think I got it now, but the aftermarket components cost about an extra $2000 to buy.

I'm going to take these lessons with me when I start to do the rebuild of the suspension system.


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