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-   VW MKVII-Mk7 Golf family including Golf Wagon (~ 2015 +) (http://forums.tdiclub.com/forumdisplay.php?f=94)
-   -   Timing Belt Change (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=506167)

ticaf March 18th, 2020 03:44

Timing Belt Change
 
I'm planning to change the timing belt/water pump myself.
Anybody has done it themselves ? any gotchas ?

I have the service manual and youtube videos, does not seem very difficult.

Is the kit from IDPARTS any good ?

Lightflyer1 March 18th, 2020 04:14

It isn't hard but it is kind of an exact science. IDParts is probably one of the better places to get your kit from. Follow the directions and use the proper tools and you shouldn't have any problems. Don't deviate and go off on your own though.

ticaf March 18th, 2020 08:08

iDPARts is much cheaper than OEM. Any reason to go with OEM?

Lightflyer1 March 18th, 2020 08:21

By OEM you mean the dealer? IDParts sells quality kits and I would have no issues buying from them and have many times. I think many of their parts are OEM sourced parts or excellent secondary mfg's.

ticaf March 18th, 2020 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lightflyer1 (Post 5579382)
By OEM you mean the dealer? IDParts sells quality kits and I would have no issues buying from them and have many times. I think many of their parts are OEM sourced parts or excellent secondary mfg's.

sorry, I meant "Genuine VAG parts" . VAG parts seem to run double what IDPARTS asks. are we just paying for the name or is it actually better?

Lightflyer1 March 18th, 2020 10:47

Call and talk to IDParts. I think you will find that they carry "Genuine VAG parts" as well as others. As I said I would have no problems with anything they have for sale. They are a participating member here and have always provided me with excellent service and parts over the years. Many others here could say the same thing.

DivineChaos March 18th, 2020 11:00

you can do it without pulling the engine mount.

ticaf March 18th, 2020 18:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by DivineChaos (Post 5579418)
you can do it without pulling the engine mount.

how ? lift up the engine just enough to pass the belt and rest it back ?

DivineChaos March 18th, 2020 20:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by ticaf (Post 5579484)
how ? lift up the engine just enough to pass the belt and rest it back ?

it only has to be pulled to get the tensioner off. well if the stud is pulled it can save you an hour. 12 minute mark https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=881JtT3HMPs
here is another good one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19PgrQc7wkI just skip the engine mount removal. you do need some special tools. crank retainer, cam and hpfp pins, tensioner pin, and a spanner wrench. also a good time to replace your coolant.

turbobrick240 March 19th, 2020 04:41

It's not difficult at all on the commonrails, just lock everything down as needed and follow instructions . Removing the tensioner stud is absolutely the way to go. Safer, faster, better.

ticaf March 19th, 2020 06:01

But my car is a mk7 with CRUA engine. Engine mount has to go in order to remove the belt.

740GLE March 19th, 2020 12:56

the timing system is about 90% of the same (different water pump), plus you don't have the booster fuel pump as the Gen1 cars that needs to be splayed out of the way.

adjat84th March 19th, 2020 15:03

Motor mount has to come off, you can't pull the stud like on the CKRA.
I've pulled mine when I did the CP3 fuel pump. You can watch the video from myturbodiesel.com and it's almost the exact same. The cam lock procedure is slightly different so pay close attention there in your manual. The crank lock, cam lock from previous CR timing belt tool kits work here as well.

ticaf March 21st, 2020 19:12

a few questions:

1. what is the preferred method to support the engine ? (from top or below)
2. it is not very clear how to remove/reinstall the lower belt cover, there is some kind of breakable tab ?
3. the camshaft sprocket central bolt has to be loosened, then retightened using the counterhold spanner. torque spec is 100NM, how easy/hard is it ?
4. to loosened/retorque the high pressure fuel pump sprocket central bolt, is it necessary to counterhold on the camshaft sprocket with the belt on ?

thanks for any input.

Nuje March 21st, 2020 20:40

Starts on page 105 of the ErWin "Engine Mechanical, Fuel Injection and Glow Plug" manual. :D

adjat84th March 22nd, 2020 05:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by ticaf (Post 5580001)
a few questions:
1. what is the preferred method to support the engine ? (from top or below)
2. it is not very clear how to remove/reinstall the lower belt cover, there is some kind of breakable tab ?
3. the camshaft sprocket central bolt has to be loosened, then retightened using the counterhold spanner. torque spec is 100NM, how easy/hard is it ?
4. to loosened/retorque the high pressure fuel pump sprocket central bolt, is it necessary to counterhold on the camshaft sprocket with the belt on ?
thanks for any input.

1. From above
2. Don't worry about the breakable tab, I had no problem reinstalling. I think it's something to aid in faster engine assembly
3. Use the cam sprocket counterhold tool (TB tool kit)
4. I don't recall having to loosen the CP4 sprocket unless you're pulling the pump for some reason?

ticaf March 22nd, 2020 06:46

Any recommendations for an engine support bar?

adjat84th March 22nd, 2020 06:48

I have a harbor freight unit, has worked well for timing belts and clutch changes.

Nuje March 22nd, 2020 09:14

There's always the beloved Herm-o-hanger:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pw23hmswvx...nger.png?raw=1

Even comes with its own instructions. :D
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f4xy8zisrf...ions.png?raw=1

ticaf March 22nd, 2020 17:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by adjat84th (Post 5580045)
I have a harbor freight unit, has worked well for timing belts and clutch changes.

where did you rest the support bar ? the available rest points that i can see is too far up from the lift hook ring on the engine.

would something like this work better:
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-2495.../dp/B01GGBOQT2

ticaf March 23rd, 2020 21:07

was quoted $1500 by the dealer, but that's without coolant flush I imagine.

So far I'm shopping for parts. The OEM water pump is quite expensive ($400). HEPU seems to have a nice one (P669) for half the price or so.
I figure $400 or so for parts (OEM but not genuine), $250 for tools. and $100 for misc supplies, coolant for flushing, etc.
so we are talking $800 in parts (rounded) and maybe 5 hours of labour (have manual and youtube videos).
what do you guys think ?

adjat84th March 24th, 2020 17:12

The pumps have gone up!
My dealer has one for $345 here
Back when I replaced my fuel pump, I thought I had a small leak coming from the pump and purchased one just in case. Still have it, brand new in box. It may not be the most updated revision though.

As for engine hoist, it works just fine! The one you linked could be great for clutch jobs though.

ticaf March 24th, 2020 19:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by adjat84th (Post 5580605)
The pumps have gone up!
My dealer has one for $345 here
Back when I replaced my fuel pump, I thought I had a small leak coming from the pump and purchased one just in case. Still have it, brand new in box. It may not be the most updated revision though.

As for engine hoist, it works just fine! The one you linked could be great for clutch jobs though.

That's a good price. I just ordered the kit from IDPARTS. Will let you guys know how it goes. I also found a claimed new pump on ebay for $59. different part number but looks identical to the OEM one. P/N is 010157801 which is for a Tiguan. could be an old one where there is a different part number for the frame of the pump and the rest. Otherwise, correct part number is 04L121011P for a current new OEM,

740GLE March 25th, 2020 03:29

oh god, stay away from ebay. is it worth 3K to save a couple bucks?

ticaf March 25th, 2020 07:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by 740gle (Post 5580675)
oh god, stay away from ebay. Is it worth 3k to save a couple bucks?

I agree!!

ticaf March 26th, 2020 07:22

water pump procedure?!?

The manual calls for draining coolant before removing the coolant pump. Then it also details the painful way to fill and bleed the coolant. I still have a headache from reading it (specialized equipment required).

On the videos I found on youtube. people just remove the pump, dumping coolant all over, and then just refill the expansion bowl and call it a day.

Anybody has any experience with that ?

adjat84th March 26th, 2020 07:30

You can try and drain from one of the lower hoses, but you're still gonna get dumped on when removing the pump.
Refilling this car is easy, but takes time. You can run the two auxiliary pumps with VCDS, but in my experience it didn't help much. First fill should be to the brim of the bottle, and you should drive the car to get up to temp (or idle forever). I believe I ended up having to refill the bottle 2 or 3 times and then it was good. Just keep coolant/distilled water with you!

ticaf March 26th, 2020 07:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by adjat84th (Post 5580882)
You can try and drain from one of the lower hoses, but you're still gonna get dumped on when removing the pump.
Refilling this car is easy, but takes time. You can run the two auxiliary pumps with VCDS, but in my experience it didn't help much. First fill should be to the brim of the bottle, and you should drive the car to get up to temp (or idle forever). I believe I ended up having to refill the bottle 2 or 3 times and then it was good. Just keep coolant/distilled water with you!




did you actually drain from the lower hose (radiator) ?
I'm worried doing so will introduce even more air in the circuit.

adjat84th March 26th, 2020 08:06

I haven't replaced my water pump. Just some other work that resulted in a gallon or two of coolant loss. I am not sure how much more could have been in the system compared to a water pump replacement.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

bmwM5power March 27th, 2020 11:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by ticaf (Post 5580625)
That's a good price. I just ordered the kit from IDPARTS. Will let you guys know how it goes. I also found a claimed new pump on ebay for $59. different part number but looks identical to the OEM one. P/N is 010157801 which is for a Tiguan. could be an old one where there is a different part number for the frame of the pump and the rest. Otherwise, correct part number is 04L121011P for a current new OEM,

good price? that pump could be had for 260

ticaf March 28th, 2020 08:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwM5power (Post 5581174)
good price? that pump could be had for 260

Please post a link where it can be bought.

Nuje March 28th, 2020 11:54

eBay - looks like OEM box.
$145USD

Lightflyer1 March 28th, 2020 14:28

From the shipping exclusions part of the page:

"Shipping to: Worldwide

Excludes: Alaska/Hawaii, APO/FPO, US Protectorates, Africa, Asia, Central America and Caribbean, Middle East, North America,"


Looks like the US is off limits for shipping.

Nuje March 28th, 2020 14:31

While it shows "free shipping", I do get an automatic shipping quote of $49.99 with my US48 address set as the default; alas, no options for shipping to Canada (where I live). And the quick jump across the border to pick something up is no longer an option these days.


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