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MOGolf November 27th, 2009 21:31

Bump. Added outside mirror disassembly procedure PDF to the list in the first post.

MOGolf December 5th, 2009 12:34

Bump because I added PDF to the list in post one. It explains how to access the ECM, power relary 219, fuse for the glow plugs, fuse for injectors, and fuse for the heated oxygen sensor.


dieselbeavis January 5th, 2010 18:08

balance shaft replacement for the home mechanic
Finished the BS replacement a about a month ago and took pics of some of the sticky areas.
Some tips for the home mechanic in replacing the Passat balance shaft module. Use Oilhammers how-to...very helpful for the first timer

Make sure you have a full set of torx drivers both ratchet and screwdriver type.

Support the engine using a couple of 2x10s held up on each end with a notched 2x4.
Stick a screwdriver in the holes on each side and in front of the notched 2x4 to prevent it from slipping. The 2x4’s fit perfectly between the fender and the hood gasket. Use cargo straps with a ratchet to jack it up and for safety clamp the webbing to the 2x10.
Make a couple of band straps to lock the crank gear in place and definitely paint a mark on the flywheel for piece of mind. Things move.

Pulling the sprocket:
Use two 5/16”x3” hardened allen bolts with a flat ground on the side along with a flange puller to remove the chain sprocket. The heads of the bolts just fit inside and if the ends of the heads are ground about 1mm or so, they will be able to grab onto the sprocket.
Comes off easy and in one piece as you can see

Use crazy glue and a piece of keyway to prevent the BS module from rotating during installation. Knock it loose and clean off the glue residue with a razor after installation.

Use a 3/8” ratchet in the BS idler gear to tighten – it is a spline bolt but a 3/8” fits almost perfect.

Crank shaft seal is was a pain - use a 1.5” long piece of 1” PVC pipe and round the cut corners with fine SiC paper, slip the Teflon seal on and then align it on the shaft and slide it on to the shaft. Diameter of the shaft and the pvc pipe is almost perfect.

The frame alignment holes are 20mm and the wheel stud removal bar that comes with the car is also 20 mm – wish I hadn’t had to do it but necessity is the mother of something.

PS. one used BS module in good condition for sale

oilhammer June 21st, 2010 06:46

I think he meant a paint mark on the flywheel while the crank sprocket and gear is off, as at that point there is nothing to show wear the crank is. This is just an extra piece-of-mind, not a necessity.

Once the gear, sealing flange, seal, and sprocket are back in place on the front, you can put the crankshaft DTC tool back in place and do the timing belt as usual.

vicius_the_one July 25th, 2010 11:40

I hope you don't think this is a commercial, I just wanna show you my DIY's:
user : guest
pass : guests
Enjoy my work and my friends's too :D

M2B June 14th, 2011 10:50

Is there a Wheel Bearing replacement How To on this forum somewhere?

greengeeker June 19th, 2011 21:27


Originally Posted by DeliveryValve (Post 2653840)
I would like to make a comment about taking apart the joint. I found it easier to put in a long bolt (or a punch or rod), smaller diameter then the original axle bolt, in to the joint end through to the axle shaft. Then sandwhich the axle between two blocks of wood with the joint placed straight and square against the side of the wood blocks. Next with a hammer, strike the bolt head and the joint separates very easily.

Ha. Here I come to make a suggestion to be added to the how-to and you've already done it. This makes separation much easier than bashing on the side of the cv joint.

dgoldsmith June 26th, 2011 16:47

RE: Balance Shaft Replacement Procedure
Two questions:

1) How can I tell (I have a VAG-COM and "intermediate" mechanical skills, e.g., the most difficult repair I've successfully completed myself is coolant system thermostat replacement) if this procedure has already been done to my car (I do not trust the dealer from whom I purchased the vehicle)?

2) How can I differentially diagnose this as my problem should it come up (i.e., what other problems cause similar symptoms, what are those symptoms, and are there any symptoms which are characteristically indicative of this problem)?

Thanks in advance!


clicker September 29th, 2012 14:08

Driver door won't open from outside
I have a 2004 Passat that won't open from the outside. Inside works just fine. I've searched around and determined its likely the cable between the outer and inner handle, but can't find a post for how to change it. Is this a big job? Anybody have a good description. Thanks!

Dankemp October 9th, 2013 10:06


Originally Posted by greengeeker (Post 3443889)
Ha. Here I come to make a suggestion to be added to the how-to and you've already done it. This makes separation much easier than bashing on the side of the cv joint.

theres a way of doing it without the need of anything but the bolt you took out .

remove the bolt slide the driveshaft to the side of the hub , straighten it , wind the bolt all the way back in , tighten the bolt the cv will pop straight off into your hand,

RC1966 September 8th, 2015 04:45

2005 tdi Passat 2.0
Hi guys, i need your expertise on this, had to change tc on my passat had error code stating tc was bad, swapped it out a d new filter and oil and new output shaft seal
This is my 3rd time putting tranny in! Small leak between motor and tranny
Pease help me with any possible remedies

Brian's96TDIPASSAT May 9th, 2016 05:59


Originally Posted by oilhammer (Post 2653889)
It cannot pop apart in the car, because it is not loaded like that.

The outer bolt serves to hold the wheel bearing halves together, that is why it must be so tight. It has nothing to do with the CV joint itself.

LOL, don't say "never" Of course it all had to do with me, dumb ass, handing axles to a buddy and having him mark them and putting the mixing them up side to side when re-installing after re-building a trans in an 05. It makes for a scare when you just get done putting together a trans and when you first put in gear and hear a loud grind and the car won't move. Luckily I was able to figure it out quickly and all it cost me was a few clamps and a tube of grease to put back together the inner CV joint.

Vdubnuts February 23rd, 2017 09:32

2004 Passat tdi
I am installing a balance shaft delete kit on this car. We have it all apart and we have the kit and I was wondering how to get the gear off of the crankshaft. Is there a website that I can look at?

buckinjacket February 8th, 2019 06:00

Hello Folks, I recently replaced the engine in my 04 B5 with another from a salvage yard. When the motor was installed but before assembling the rest of the car I purged the air from the fuel system through the glow plugs according to a post I read only got fuel from #4, installed the glow plugs and the motor started with a stumble then cleared up and ran fine, starting without issue multible times. Now after completing the assembly it will not start cranks, over fine I have removed the glow plugs to see if maybe the fuel system leaked down and there is nothing coming out during crank. Car has new fuel filter replaced tandem pump with one from previous motor Vagcom ran lift pump several times good flow of clean fuel, bypassed tee at filter still nothing. Sorry for long post but wanted show what was done with hopes of someone having an idea of something else to try as I'm at my wits end. Thanks

rotarykid September 25th, 2019 23:49

looking to do a Passat TDI auto transmission fluid exchange
I have a 04 Passat TDI sedan ~160k miles on the clock that I want to do a trans fluid exchange, still shifting good so I want to keep it that way....

I have done flushes on other makes of automatics, any special things to look out for while doing a flush on this car?

are there any good write-ups on how to do this on this car?

how much is a good quantity for the flush (9 Litres/9.5 qts capacity is what I have found is that correct?) double that, is that good for a flush of the transmission & torqe converter on this car?

On replacement fluid, what type of fluid to use?, brand?

what is a good price to pay for the needed quantity of this stuff to do a good flush?

where is the best place to hook up to fill for the flush & which hose where is best place to connect to for the drain the old out while filling?

In N or Park during the flush while the engine is running?

How to do the quantity check before & afterwords to make sure I have filled to capacity?

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