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-   -   40K service checklist (http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=392394)

1gunther1 February 3rd, 2015 11:02

I just got a quote from Wes Greenway of $850 for the 40K service to include DSG. Anyone in the metro area got any recommendations on better pricing? Doing it myself is not an option at this time.

luomlds February 18th, 2015 07:12

40k Service
 
I live in Minnesota. I got a nice quote for $650. However, at Luther VWs, they quote you at $850-1000...

If you live in Minnesota, shop around and message me if you want to know were I am getting mine serviced at.

Almir1 February 20th, 2015 04:57

Running Wish list for 2013 Passat
 
I usually go on Amazon and keep a running wish list of things I want to buy for my car. This includes oil, filters, etc etc.

Feel free to look at it and compare prices at other places.

I did some research and the 50k, 60k, and 70k service will be about 30-40 bucks cheaper with Amazon parts than idparts.com... but they do sure make it easier with those kits...

http://amzn.com/w/MSK5H0IPRCY2


Let me know if the link (doesn't) works

Almir1 February 20th, 2015 05:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by kydsid (Post 4272960)
PS. I'd like to kick the guy who designed the oil filter and the clearance to get it out of the engine bay.

I broke that stem in the oil cap after frustratingly spending 15 minutes trying to wiggle it out. Ordered 2 the next day, replaced the broken one and now I have a spare one in the garage just in case

titleist1 April 18th, 2015 17:18

I hit the 40k mark this week and got through everything but the DSG oil & filter change today. I noticed my allen bit set hadn't been returned so I couldn't get the drain plug or insert out. Luckily I noticed that before wresting the topside stuff off to get to the filter.

I think the german engineers are holding a grudge for losing the wars and are torturing us through their idiotic oil filter location.

By the way, has anyone else tried using the screw jack that comes with the car on the front and did it actually lift the car high enough to clear the tire? While rotating the tires, it hit the stops before the tire cleared on the front so i went to the pump jack up front and the screw jack with a 2x8 under it on the back.

jrm April 19th, 2015 08:14

Remember to crack the filters loose pror to pulling the drain plugs, or as they drain like me- quite a bit more came out after I loosened the filters. I didn't get quite 4.5L out of mine and I let it drain for 36 hours, I left my battery tray and intake all together, just loosened the 4? bolts (one stays in the plastic) disconnected the mass airflow and one of the vacuum tubes near the firewall and un-clicked the snorkel from the splash shield near the hood latch and removed the entire thing as one piece. I had to tilt it up and pivot towards the passenger side to get the U shaped intake around a rad hose. You can remove the U thingy as there are 2 snaps in the square part. As I re-assembled I sprayed silicone spray onto the rubber holders that the plastic clicks into- instant easy button
Let us know if your filter that came out looked like this? This is mine, and the last digit is a D on the part number rather than the common (and reinstalled) white foam style C as the last digit in the part number.

http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...psmatytvnf.jpg

titleist1 April 19th, 2015 14:53

Mine was/is the white foam style. It came in the kit I got from IDParts.

I got 4 liters drained from it so that is how much I put back in. I had about 1-1/2 liters drain out before i removed the snorkel, I guess that is because i had it on ramps. The remainder of the 4 liters came out after i took out the snorkel.

The tool list that Deezil_n_Dachs compiled a few posts above was very useful and saved me some time fiddling around for the correct socket, thanks for that.

It took about 1-1/2 hours to do the DSG portion and i would bet 1/2 hour of that was waiting for the oil to fill topside.

To me the DSG filter was less frustrating to deal with than the engine oil filter.

jsm172 April 21st, 2015 06:12

The hardest part of the DSG change was
 
getting the air filter housing out. It took me at least 30 minutes to figure out everything and remove it.

Another thing I have noticed after I changed the DSG oil, is that I smell the oil every once in awhile while driving. I must have spilled a little bit somewhere when filling.

domano 68 April 23rd, 2015 10:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deezil_n_Dachs (Post 4698290)
I've compiled a list of the tools, their sizes and the torgue recommended for most of the fasteners that are used in performing the 40K miles service. I've searched and feel confident in the accuracy of what's listed, but free to make call out anything that needs corrected.
If you have the Dieselgeek skid plate:
-30mm or 1-3/16 socket - 50 ftlb
-M8 triple square socket - 18 ftlb
Plastic belly pan:
-T25 Torx
-T45 Torx (these aren't used with the Dieselgeek plate)
Engine oil change:
-Drain plug - 19mm or 3/4" socket - 22 ftlb
-Plastic wire harness guide - T30 Torx
-Coolant tubing - T30 Torx
-Oil filter cap - 32mm or 1-1/4" socket - 18.4 ftlb
Fuel filter cap:
-T20 Torx
Air filter housing:
-T25 Torx
-5mm allen wrench
-12" channel locks
Battery:
-Cable clamps - 10mm
-Hold down clamp - 13mm socket
-Shelf - 10mm socket
DSG fluid change:
-Drain plug - 14mm allen wrench or socket - 33 ftlb
(I had a 5/8" allen wrench, and I cut 2" from the long end. I filed the flats just a bit and it fit very well)
-Snorkle - 8mm allen - 2.5 ftlb
-Filter cap - 24mm or 15/16" socket - 15 ftlb
Tire rotation:
-Lugbolts - 17mm or 11/16 deepwell socket - 103 ftlb
Diesel exhaust fluid:
-Adblue bottle from the dealer
Hope you find this useful!

Thanks for posting.

Correct or incorrcet: If filling DSG from top, you do not need to get all 4 wheels off of the ground?

I "assume" you have to get all 4 wheels off the ground to get the car level if you do the bottom fill method so you can have the level correct at the top side of the 8mm allen plastic snorkel insert? If this is true, how much fluid can I get out if I only get the front end off of the ground (ramps)? I plan on doing the top fill method. Thanks in advance!

Deezil_n_Dachs April 23rd, 2015 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68 (Post 4788951)
Thanks for posting.

Correct or incorrcet: If filling DSG from top, you do not need to get all 4 wheels off of the ground?

I "assume" you have to get all 4 wheels off the ground to get the car level if you do the bottom fill method so you can have the level correct at the top side of the 8mm allen plastic snorkel insert? If this is true, how much fluid can I get out if I only get the front end off of the ground (ramps)? I plan on doing the top fill method. Thanks in advance!

You are correct about the bottom fill method, the car must be level. The top fill, measure/refill procedure that I followed did not require that. I was able to drain 4.5 liters while my front tires were up on ramps, and I'm confident that was everything that's capable of coming out through the drain plug.
Hope this helps you!

domano 68 April 24th, 2015 09:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deezil_n_Dachs (Post 4789390)
You are correct about the bottom fill method, the car must be level. The top fill, measure/refill procedure that I followed did not require that. I was able to drain 4.5 liters while my front tires were up on ramps, and I'm confident that was everything that's capable of coming out through the drain plug.
Hope this helps you!

10-4, much thanks!

domano 68 April 27th, 2015 06:34

Performed the DSG service, new air filter, DEF top off and new fuel filter this weekend with no problems.

Fuel filter very easy: unbolted, removed old filter, added new filter, topped off housing with PS. Cranked right up.

Get the VW 1/2 gal adblue bottle for the DEF. Great design and very easy to fill. Plan on getting the walmart 2.5 gal tote of DEF and re-using the adblue bottle.

If doing the top fill method, measuring amount of fluid drained, then no need to get all 4 wheels off the ground. Got the front end of the car up on two ramps then started taking stuff out to get to the transmission filter. Air intake was the toughest. I unscrewed all top bolts of the intake and put the top side of the intake to the side without disconnecting the hose to the throttle body.

I discovered the base of the air intake was connected to the battery tray in two spots with two plastic grommets/plastic bolts. This was the most difficult part of the process since I had not read about this prior to doing the work nor had I seen anything like this before. Basically I just pulled these apart. Then I removed battery. Blew some compressed air around to move all debris from filter area. Then removed filter cover, pulled old filter out and threw away.

Removed belly pan from rear. Pulled 14mm drain plug, then pulled 8mm plastic snorkel draining rest out fluid into catch pan from bottom side. Then dumped used dirty fluid into 5 qt Mobil 1 jug. Had just over 4 liters drained out. Then poured oil fluid out that was above the 4 liters mark of the Mobil 1 jug into a measuring cup which equated to 300ml. Now I knew exactly how much was drained. This method seemed easier than measuring everything that was drained in a seperate one liter funnel as I have seen others do.

Got the new tranny fluid warmed up in hot water and this really did help. Put 4 liters of new fresh fluid in through the oil filter hole on the top of the engine, then measured out 400 ml in a measuring cup (the extra 100ml was to account for the fluid that was saturated in the filter). Snapped new filter on, put housing cover back on. Then started to reassemble. Dropped new air filter in. Putting everything back together was much easier than taking it apart.

Started the car and going through all gears and let run for a bit. Got several dash lights but they went away after a few minutes. I assume this was due to the battery being removed. Put the car back up on ramps and looked for leaks. None found so belly pan was reinstalled.

Overall this was a pretty straightforward job and everyone that is mechanically inclined and wants to have a little fun should do this themselves. There are enough people on this forum to answer any questions or concerns and offer shortcuts and advice for those who are willing.

Don't go to the dealership to have this done! Do it yourself and know that it was actually done and done correctly. The Huntsville dealership quoted over $1000 for the 40K service so it was an easy decision for me to go to idparts.com and get the kit and do it myself! Three years ago I went to this dealership when searching for a Passat. They wanted their "market adjustment" on top of MSRP. I guess some things don't change.

Hope this helps!

jsm172 April 27th, 2015 10:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by domano 68 (Post 4791468)
Performed the DSG service, new air filter, DEF top off and new fuel filter this weekend with no problems.

Fuel filter very easy: unbolted, removed old filter, added new filter, topped off housing with PS. Cranked right up.

Get the VW 1/2 gal adblue bottle for the DEF. Great design and very easy to fill. Plan on getting the walmart 2.5 gal tote of DEF and re-using the adblue bottle.

If doing the top fill method, measuring amount of fluid drained, then no need to get all 4 wheels off the ground. Got the front end of the car up on two ramps then started taking stuff out to get to the transmission filter. Air intake was the toughest. I unscrewed all top bolts of the intake and put the top side of the intake to the side without disconnecting the hose to the throttle body.

I discovered the base of the air intake was connected to the battery tray in two spots with two plastic grommets/plastic bolts. This was the most difficult part of the process since I had not read about this prior to doing the work nor had I seen anything like this before. Basically I just pulled these apart. Then I removed battery. Blew some compressed air around to move all debris from filter area. Then removed filter cover, pulled old filter out and threw away.

Removed belly pan from rear. Pulled 14mm drain plug, then pulled 8mm plastic snorkel draining rest out fluid into catch pan from bottom side. Then dumped used dirty fluid into 5 qt Mobil 1 jug. Had just over 4 liters drained out. Then poured oil fluid out that was above the 4 liters mark of the Mobil 1 jug into a measuring cup which equated to 300ml. Now I knew exactly how much was drained. This method seemed easier than measuring everything that was drained in a seperate one liter funnel as I have seen others do.

Got the new tranny fluid warmed up in hot water and this really did help. Put 4 liters of new fresh fluid in through the oil filter hole on the top of the engine, then measured out 400 ml in a measuring cup (the extra 100ml was to account for the fluid that was saturated in the filter). Snapped new filter on, put housing cover back on. Then started to reassemble. Dropped new air filter in. Putting everything back together was much easier than taking it apart.

Started the car and going through all gears and let run for a bit. Got several dash lights but they went away after a few minutes. I assume this was due to the battery being removed. Put the car back up on ramps and looked for leaks. None found so belly pan was reinstalled.

Overall this was a pretty straightforward job and everyone that is mechanically inclined and wants to have a little fun should do this themselves. There are enough people on this forum to answer any questions or concerns and offer shortcuts and advice for those who are willing.

Don't go to the dealership to have this done! Do it yourself and know that it was actually done and done correctly. The Huntsville dealership quoted over $1000 for the 40K service so it was an easy decision for me to go to idparts.com and get the kit and do it myself! Three years ago I went to this dealership when searching for a Passat. They wanted their "market adjustment" on top of MSRP. I guess some things don't change.

Hope this helps!

This is exactly what I did as well. I agree about the batter/air filter housing. It was the hardest part of the service. I know how to do it now, so i will be able to finish faster next time.

jrm April 28th, 2015 07:43

Well said, 4.3 Drained but I put 4.5 back as that filter really held a lot of oil, I removed it from that plastic cage and unraveled it out- then threw it in the wood stove to start the mornings fire and it heated my home quite well- I Also sucked the filter area completely dry so I accounted for 200ml. I also used a shop vac around the batt try and filter cap areas

pedorro July 17th, 2015 23:44

I performed the 40K service today which took me just under three hours to complete (non-DSG). Future oil changes and services will be a bit quicker now that I've wrangled the oil and fuel filters. I was a bit surprised by how long the VCDS-initiated fuel pump test ran. It took almost exactly two gallons of DEF for the 10,040 miles since that last service. I am sending an oil sample to Blackstone and am be curious to see what aluminum numbers are.

I ran out of steam and time so will need to rotate the tires and install my DG SSK on Sunday.

I really appreciate this site and all the useful information contained within!


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