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-   -   BHW Balance Shaft Module replacement (

leicaman January 25th, 2009 05:32

FYI here is a second version. This one only has the four page TPI that was the basis of the fix. No parts list or photos of the two different pump assemblies are included in this one. Both of the pdfs are available:

Short version:

Longer with parts/illustration version:

jasonTDI January 25th, 2009 09:49


Originally Posted by aja8888
You are probably right. All I have gotten is a run around from Impex. I wish I could post the string of e-mails I have recieved from them in the last two + weeks.

Not to doubt you and your angst for not getting the parts but they get the same from VW. they will tell you what they are told. It's that simple....Seriously. They are stand up guys.

aja8888 January 25th, 2009 09:55


Originally Posted by jasonTDI
Not to doubt you and your angst for not getting the parts but they get the same from VW. they will tell you what they are told. It's that simple....Seriously. They are stand up guys.

Stand up guys? School is out on that for me. And I won't go into the details on why I got frustrated from a lack of response(s). Another thing I did not like was that they charged my credit card for $1345.00 immediately, knowing full well they had no idea when they could ship me the parts.

It took me three or four days, two e-mails and one phone call to get the charge reversed and cancel the order.

Every online retailer I do business with will NOT CHARGE my card until the order ships.

TDIJetta99 January 25th, 2009 11:55

ok I just looked over the PDF and I'm confident doing this procedure.. no problem.. I'm missing a few of the tools, which I will get if someone needs this job done.. I'm guessing I'll have the same trouble getting the parts as everyone else though

volkswagendude January 25th, 2009 15:57


Originally Posted by aja8888
Every online retailer I do business with will NOT CHARGE my card until the order ships.

+1 That is how it should always be.

MOGolf January 25th, 2009 17:47

Before this thread gets too cluttered with comments that are not related to the replacement procedure :rolleyes: , here are pictures of the alternate puller suggested by ScotR.

And the pressure plate that comes with it (use instead of 30-11). Note that it fits into the crank pulley bolt hole and has an o-ring to provide friction to hold it there.

This tool is installed over the end of the crankshaft. The diameter of the opening in the "bottom" is just big enough for the crankshaft. The pulling legs are meant to fit into the holes of the replacement gear. They are not spaced for the existing sprocket on the crankshaft. They need to be ground and shaped a little to fit the hole spacing.

The pressure screw has a 24mm head whereas the T40001 has a 19mm head. The counterholding hex on the body is 32mm.

Now I need a volunteer to try this out on. I know one other member obtained one of these and may use it soon.

DickSilver January 26th, 2009 16:31

I received my UPS shipment from Impex early this evening. One well-taped box with the geared balance shaft module in a very flimsy VW/Audi box inside, and all the other parts, each in its own bag. All checked on the Impex list, PLUS what looks like a new timing pulley, 038-105-263-F. Gotta check that one with my mechanics at Fast Enough Performance in Lexington Wednesday morning.

MOGolf January 26th, 2009 16:36

That is the part number for the crankshaft timing belt pulley. There should be no need to replace it, but the 045 105 229 bolt that holds it on gets replaced.

DickSilver January 26th, 2009 17:33

MOGolf - As I examine the Bentley manual and the BHW engine BS Module replacement that you and Oilhammer authored, I interpret that when the toothed (timing) belt crankshaft pulley is replaced, the engine must be at #1 cyl TDC exactly, and that the pulley is held in place with tool T10050. Then the new bolt 045 105 229 is torqued to spec. There appears to be no keyway or other pinning device: the toothed belt pulley is just held by friction under the torqued-down bolt. Am I right? Do I make sense?

MOGolf January 26th, 2009 17:51

The pulley is not replaced, it is reused and reinstalled. The crankshaft has a flat spot. The pulley has a D shape on the back to fit the crankshaft.

The T10050 is NOT used to counterhold the crankshaft. Do not have it in place while tightening the bolt. I recommend the Metalnerd Crank Yank tool to counterhold the crankshaft.

The engine is set to TDC at the proper time of removing the timing belt. It remains there throughout the procedure. If properly held in position while removing/installing the bolt, the crank won't move far. It can be realigned and the T10050 reinstalled for belt installation after the bolt is tightened.

It would be a safe practice to install the timing belt with the crank pulley bolt reasonably tight. Once the belt is installed, and locking tools removed, the final torque could be applied to the crank bolt. This would ensure that there is no chance of turning the crank too far without the camshaft turning.

DickSilver January 29th, 2009 16:25

I was delayed a full day by the big ice & snow storm, but this morning all the main roads were cleared and I was able to get my 2004 B5.5V driven to Fast Enough Performance for the geared BS replacement. Tomorrow, maybe, I'll have an improved car!

jennogle January 30th, 2009 13:56

I finally got my car back!
As I posted before, my car's chain broke on November 22nd at a little over 80,000 miles. Due to lack of parts availability, I finally got it back just one week ago (January 23rd). That's TWO MONTHS without my car. :mad: Even scarier is the cost of the repair (including replacing the turbo and other parts damaged by the broken chain) came to over $4500! Ugh.

My mechanic (MF Auto in Knoxville) did an excellent job, and the car is now running great again, but I can't say I will recover any time soon. I urge any of you who are on the fence about not having this repair done preventatively to THINK TWICE.

Silver 2005 Passat GLS TDI Wagon

oilhammer January 30th, 2009 14:05

don't stop now!
Jenn, you need to see this thread and make sure you let VOA know about your problem, and SAVE ALL YOUR OLD PARTS!!!!

jennogle January 30th, 2009 14:10

Talking to VW
Yup, I am working on a letter to VW now. Matt saved the old parts, both for me and to show other customers what can happen to their cars. He also took pictures of my car before he made the repairs. I plan to send the complete invoice, photos, and letter to anyone at VW or elsewhere who will listen.


deming January 31st, 2009 07:51

Here is the $64,000 or in Jenn's case the $4500 question----

At what point should we have this procedure done ?

We have two 05 Passat TDI wagons and thus far they have both been good cars for us. They both have the VW extended service contracts for 7 years or 100,000 miles and we purchased both of them new. I change the motor oil every 7000 miles using 505.01 motor oil and we maintain them well. One car has 30,000 miles and the other has almost 40,000 miles.

My fiance says we should just drive them until they blow and then make VW extended warranty fix them. We all know the probelm with that scenario.

Do we bite the bullet and take them down to Oilhammer and spend $3000 per car or do we trade one of them off and say the heck with it.

Jenn just spent $4500 on her car and has been without the use of her car for quite some time. That is a big chunk of change!

If VW corporate would provide me all of the parts Oilhammer will need for the updates (at no $$ charge), on both of our 2005 TDI cars, I would gladly pay the labor. I can eat $3000 in labor, but VW should step up to the plate and at least cover and provide the parts.

Dieses issue ist ein GroBe Problem for VW and fur mich!


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