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alphaseinor September 9th, 2006 23:17

Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the Manual Swap
Project Kill Da Auto Wabbit!, Or how I learned to love the manual swap.

First post last updated 3/22/2010 - new part numbers for switches.

I'm working in a wiki version of this page... you can find it on Digi Sport Performance White Papers page.

Please read the entire thread (Currently as of 1-26-08 is 31 pages long...) before you decide to do this!!!

First This is a thread where I am going to go through what I did to swap out my automatic transmission to a manual 5 speed. If you want to do this, go ahead, this is just a reference to what I did, not the definative guide on the subject.

Second, GDB did a writeup on the wiring
in Word .doc format here
in .PDF format here

Here's what I got from the Junkyard
Transmission & mounts
Flywheel, Pressure Plate, Clutch, Misc.
Dust "tins" from engine assembly (there are two)
Clutch Pedal Assembly
Clutch Pedal Line
Shifter Box
Shifter Linkage
All Bolts and nuts, clips, brackets, etc...
All interior peices that touch the stick shift
Starter (looks identical... but is not)

Here are some common parts that you might not be able to find in the junkyard: Thanks to Rodrigues

Small Clip on Master cylinder - 7M0 721 431
O ring for master cylinder - 02F 141 143 A
350mm Hose to Hydraulic Tank - 857 721 453
Clutch pedal firewall gasket - 1j1 721 410
3 M8 Nuts that hold clutch pedal in N - 902 264 03
Transmission dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645 m
Engine dust cover plate (manual) 06a 103 645
Axle Bolts x12 (ask the dealer)
Transmission bolts there's four of them, two different sizes (ask the dealer)
53 relay (very common in VW's... just look around)
a bunch of butt connectors

Here's some part numbers (still need to be verified)
1 Axle Left 1J0 407 271 H
1 Axle Right 1J0 407 452 X
8 Bolts 893 407 237
6 Spacer plates 1J0 407 357 A
2 Locking Nuts N 905 876 02

1 EGR coded trans 02J300047M

2.0 Liters G 052726A2

1 Top Bolt Rear N 10337803
1 Top Bolt Front N 90701604
3 Oil Pan Bolt N 90870401
1 Bottom Rear Bolt N 10337803
2 Starter Bolt N 90766202

1 Shifter Assembly
1 Knob Assembly 1J0711113BB
2 Lock Washer 1J0711280B
2 Bushing for up down 1J0711067L

1 Clutch Pedal Assembly
1 Bracket 1J1721379B
1 Bracket Cruise unknown
1 Clutch Hose 1J1721465AL
1 Slave Cylinder 1J0721261H
2 Salve cyl bolts N 0103324
5 clutch pedal bolts N 90226403

Main Part 06A103645
Axle releif 068103645M
Bolt N 0102085
spring washer N 0122265

1 Bosch 02A911024DX

1 SMF Valeo G60 VR6 Kit
includes all bolts, flywheel pressure plate, cltutch, throwout bearing

1 '53' relay
8 pink crimps
Clutch Switch Cruise 1J0 927 189 E
Switch Cruise Connector 6N0 972 704 D
Clutch Switch Starter 1J0 927 189 C
Switch Start Connector 1J0 972 702
Reverse switch 02K 945 415 C
Rev switch connector 1J0 973 702

1 modified bracket
1 short shifter

paper clip, or terminal tool (for the wiring)

You need a Vag-com, triple square bits, an engine support ( has a nice one for $60), transmission jack (you can use a come along, or a couple of ratchet straps), clutch alignment tool (some of the clutch kits come with them), sockets, torque wrench, lots o misc tools... etc ad nausium... You may have to dig into the relay, and I'll post photos on that later in March 2007...

Photos of stuff

Here's what I got for my clutch
G60 VR6 Flywheel Non-lightened for best gas mileage on the highway, besides, I don't race autocross in my golf.
Stock G60 clutch (should hold about 250lb ft of torque)
Stock G60 Pressure Plate
Misc Bolts stuff
Trans Mount Bolts (they are stretch bolts, marked with an X)
Axle Bolts for a Manual transmission

If you want something that will hold more torque think about a dual diaphragm clutch like the one that BleachedBora sells at

Here's what I paid for everything
$1200 for anything I wanted from the TDI I ripped everything out of, with the exception of the motor, and interior. They didn't let me take the PCM (ECU, computer, whatever we call it) however you will just need to go into engine--> coding --> change the number from 2 to 1 leaving the leading 0's intact (see for the exact information).

$400 for the G60 clutch and misc bolts... you can probably just use the clutch that came with the other TDI, I would personally use a new one are all good places to look for parts.

$300 for the short shifter from which is needed for clearing the stock power steering line. if you decide not to use the automatic version of the power steering line, this is not covered (yet) in this document.

There is tax, shipping, misc other things like fluids, bolts, and other misc things that go into this type of thing (think about $100-$200). There will be some modification to the wiring harness, so if you are not ready to solder or crimp something, then you should probably look into trading your Auto TDI for a Manual TDI.

That's $2100 for the swap, you can add about $1000-1200 in labor if someone is doing this for you (I charge $1200 + parts to do this, and it takes a "three day weekend")

As you can see there is plenty of room for the clutch pedal, and you don't need to have the shortened brake pedal like in the MKIII cars

The photo of the grommet where the clutch pedal hydraulic lines shows that at least with my car, it should be relatively easy for everything to get done.

This is where the master brake cylinder will need to be cut on the reservoir to connect the clutch. On my car, it's just nip, and connect.

Step 1: I removed the air box, and placed a paper towel into the turbo inlet hose. A tip on removing the air box is to take the MAF Connector, vaccum hose, then remove the top of the air box. there are two (10mm wrench) bolts holding the bottom of the air box on the chassis, you can get at them with an extension. then you should be able to see the transmission much better.

Step 2: Remove the Battery, and battery tray.

Fortuna Wolf September 10th, 2006 03:57

Ok, I'll be watching! I'm sure I'll have questions too, but for now, keep up with the swap and good luck. Is that a used VR6 clutch and flywheel, or new?

I think I'll save up a few thousand to do the swap along with some other upgrades like ESP at the same time.

alphaseinor September 10th, 2006 08:15

I have a new one coming, I don't have photos yet as I just ordered it on Fritag...

compu_85 September 10th, 2006 13:58

FYI, with vag-com, you can recode your ECU and tell it you have a manual transmission.


alphaseinor September 10th, 2006 14:35

Step 3: Hang clutch pedal
3a: Unscrew the two screws the carpet hold down behind the pedals, remove the carpet holddown

3b: remove the firewall material from the firewall by pulling from the top, and pulling it down and out.

remove the grommet from the firewall.

It should look like this after you are done,

Photo of the (mostly) installed clutch pedal from the firewall.


There are three nuts on the studs, you will need a 8" extension and a deep socket to get the one on the top, I greased the top nut so it wouldn't slip out of the socket. This took about an hour to get the pedal installed, partially because I was trying to find my 8" extension.

Note that you want to remove the hydraulic line from the pedal assembly, there is a metal clip that makes it easy.

Everything went really smooth for me, there are metal standoffs (anti-crush washers) on the hydraulic assembly which if you remove them before you put the clutch in, it will go in much easier. then just put the washers back in, tighten, and you're done.

Step 4: Drain the transmission fluid as much as you can. There is a 6mm allen "dipstick" plug, then remove the "dipstick" with the 6mm allen from the pan of the transmission. let it drain, then stick the dipstick back in, and then the plug. Recylce old fluid whereever possible.

Once these are done, out with the transmission, linkage, PRNDL lever... and in with the new stick shift.

Fortuna Wolf September 10th, 2006 15:39

PCM? The ECU? Why is it necessary to fool it?

alphaseinor September 10th, 2006 15:48

Step 5a: remove the lever by pushing down the lever shaft sleeve with a screwdriver, then push the button and pry the sleeve and the shift lever should come up. Then pry the metal trim off, it has four tabs. remove the four torx screws and then lift out the surrounding trim (the large one with the power outlet, and change drawer), remove the connectors for the lamp and the power outlet. pry off the PRNDL display and get a #2 or lerger phillips screwdriver and remove the housing. pry out the shift lock release (like a bicycle brake cable connector), and remove the two connectors. Unplug the transmission selector cable from the transmission by prying carefully.

Step 5b: Remove (partially) the exhaust: The Exhaust will have a coupler, it has two 18mm nuts, I didn't need to use a breaker bar to break it loose. You will need to unbolt the rear hangar mount for the muffler: this uses two 13mm bolts. next you will have to unbolt the collector on the turbo downpipe, this has three 13mm nuts. pull the collector off (it has a flex pipe attatched, so this is easy). Then you will need to remove the hangar mount directly aft of the turbo. this uses two 13mm bolts, but I just used a wrench to get them off as I didn't see any way of getting a rachet in there. After this is loose you should be able to slide the exhaust off the coupler, and the exhaust will hang down a bit.

Step 5c: Remove the front most heat sheild. Where you just removed the exhaust, you will find a flimsy heat sheild. you just pry off the nuts (or unscrew them with a screwdriver and your fingers) being careful not to break them. there are three tabs holding them in, which you can just carefully bend out of place. remove the heat sheild after these four nuts are removed by pulling the heatsheild towards the front of the car. you will be able to work with an 8" extension and a 13mm socket to remove the remaining two bolts on the automatic lever. Just remove the shift box. very easy. took me about 30 minutes to do this step... might take about an hour if you have a problem with the exhaust

Step 5d: You just install the shifter box (the stick) you got from the junkyard by putting the cables on top of the transmission (they don't connect at this time) and put the box up into the hole. Loosely bolt up the bottom with the two bolts, then tighten the the top all the way with the two nuts. go back under and finish tightening the bottom bolts. It should look something like this:

Step 5e: Put the heat sheild back. I used a 13mm deep socket to help push the nuts back on, it should click a bunch of times.. The three tabs, I bent by hand, but you can use a screwdriver. (macro lens was broken for this part, and this was done without the use of a lift)

Step 5f: Put the exhaust back. Start by putting the pipes back together, then put turbo collector back on, then the muffler mount, then the mount that is aft of the turbo. pull both pipes together until they stop. Then tighten the coupler with the 18mm socket.

Step 6: You will need either a coupler (I used one) the manual transmission metal coolant line, or a length of hose to bypass the transmission "cooler" (or was that heater???). Remove the spring clip, and pull the hose off the backside being careful to move quickly to plug the leak. insert the coupler, and then do the same for the other side, spring clamp them, and you're done. It'll look something like this when you are done:

Fortuna Wolf September 10th, 2006 16:55

I didn't think about that. So, is it possible that the cluster will need to be swapped too to make it perfect?

compu_85 September 10th, 2006 17:47

Just code the ECU (it's not a PCM, it doesn't control the transmission) to 0001 (I think that's the right number of 0's, it should be set at 0002 for auto trans now), and subtract 1 from the soft coding of the CAN Gateway (address 19). There's no reason to 'fool' the comptuers when you can do it properly in software. As I understand it the shift display on the cluster will just blank out... or you can just cover it with a piece of tape. Same with the press brake to shift light.

Also, because your Golf is a 99, there is no Immoblizer. You can change the cluster without having to worry about the keys... it just plugs in. A cluster from a 99 New Jetta or New Golf with the standard trans will drop right in and illiminate any shift lights or gear displays, without the need to recode anything (in the cluster).


alphaseinor September 10th, 2006 19:21

This post was off topic... so I've removed it.

I later found out the transmission is controlled by another box... the TCU

alphaseinor September 15th, 2006 19:45

It's been a week, so I'm going to try to finish the Removal and installation of this project this weekend... I just got my VAG-COM from Ross-Tech... They've had it for a while... it'll probably be about another week before I can do the recode. If not I'll just do it sunday night.

Fun fun fun... till the govnah takes the Diesel away!

alphaseinor September 16th, 2006 19:49

I updated my post above with some photos! I feel like today was productive. I one spent about four hours removing and installing stuff, and found I ordered a 9mm triple square instead of a 8mm triple square for the axels... sucks to be me... I'll pick one up tonight, and have the tranny out tomorrow night. I probably won't get this totally done until next weekend... Lots of work at work this week!

Fortuna Wolf September 16th, 2006 21:15

My axles have M12 bolts on them, and not M8 or M10s. Weird, huh?

alphaseinor September 17th, 2006 00:07

I guess VW's engineers decided they like variety? The 9mm version is just a little too big for the bolts that are on there...
I still haven't measured the axels to see if they are the same length, splines, and spacing on the transmission. Other than that, this is the easiest transmission change I have done since my 130 mph Turbo Geo Metro.

Fortuna Wolf September 17th, 2006 09:51

Coolness, that's great to hear. I have some leads on transmission swap packages myself :)

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