Westfalia Towbar/Hitch dedicated electrics kit install

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Thanks Sandmansans!

Yet another one!
I did my best to consolidate the many different threads. Since I was texting with other members, I thought this would be helpful to someone. No pictures because I'm too exhausted to even use the clubs horrible photo server. This install will help a mk6 golf or JSW . Sandmansans thread is good for you mk6 Jettas. The Westfalia and Jaeger instructions are very thorough, but if you want some words connected to each photo, use this knock-off writeup.

Buy a Towbar/Hitch. Plenty of threads out there but Westfalia or Bosal if you want to do any significant and safe heavy towing.
Towbar for Mk6 Jetta Sportwagen Golf Sportswagen 321630

Towbar for mk6 Jetta321778

Towbar for Mk6 Golf321885

Buy the 13 pin vw dedicated kit under the drop down menu to get a small combo discount.

321600300113 LHD 13 pin dedicated electrics kit

321600300153 RHD 13 pin dedicated electrics kit (this is what PFJones shows as the part number but ask in your order notes for the Left Hand Drive kit. This is still usable but requires more coding and has extra wiring loom to stuff into your interior. They sent this to me mistakenly but I still was able to install it.)

300 028 300 113 electric extension kit. Get this if you plan charging 12v into your trailer , or your fridge, or retrofit the brake controller through here. When you order from PFJones and order the 13 pin kit with your towbar, this is included automatically.

Module shows as 300001506758. This may be the most updated module. Dated 10/8/16.

If you order from PFJones remember to ask for the price with VAT excluded. and confirm its the LHD kit. They were able to refund the amount to me later but it just takes more troublesome emails.
Buy the 13 pin to 7 way or 7 way flat adapters

13 pin euro plug search 13 pin euro on ebay
. It should have 13 male pins on one side. $5 from china got to me quicker than the one from UK

4 way flat plug (don't choose an LED tester version) Amazon
7 way flat plug to convert to 13 pin Curt 57184 . 7 way trailer side male wiring attached to euro 13 pin plug

Buy a good depinning tool.
or make the best one like Pencilnck
Make one yourself from paperclips and lose feeling in your fingertips.
You may only be depinning one or two wires. But let me tell you. This can be the most frustrating part of the install. I've always hated depinning, 1 out of 10 will come out with ease when I use my crappy green Lisle depinning wheel of death from carquest. These did not come out well (plugged it into the wrong spot the first time). Don't f up unless you like pinching and squeezing for hours. I cannot recommend Schwaben for the shear price of that stupid chinese kit. You decide.
http://4130-products.com/step/wiring/index.htm depinning info.

Install your towbar/hitch.
Use VW_Leadfoot's thread
Tips:
-I didn't reuse the styrofoam, up to you if you want to
-Don't forget to goop the old 5mph bumper bracket holes. I forgot and now I'll do it with the bumper skin on
-I didn't feel comfortable welding the ring onto that portion of the towbar like others, so I bought some 1/4 Chain link and wrapped it around the bar and a quicklink to take it off.
-Didn't make the access cover like him, but I'll figure it out at some time. Just wide open for now.
Install your 13 pin dedicated electrics wiring kit

https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/fileadmin/pdf/e_anlagen/321/e321600391101-023.pdf

DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY.

Remove Interior bits and lay down the wiring loom
-The Jaeger directions show a few pictures on how to remove the interior, good luck =)
-from fuse box to the rear driverside tail light area where the module will exist. Or back to front your choice. Makes more sense from front to back. Excess wiring will most likely end up in the rear quarter panel area.
-you are placing your module by rear quarter panel behind the wheelwell and then send your wire to the towbar bracket.

*optional* if you are installing the accessory kit.
Use https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/fileadmin/pdf/e_anlagen/321/e321535391105-06.pdf
you are pretty much plugging in a fuse at the module end of your harness, and tracing the yellow and orange wiring to your fuse box area. Then that yellow wire will go through the firewall and be plugged into a connector that has a hot wire to attach to your battery block. Orange wire attaches to IGN in the dash.

-follow the Eric Jaeger install instructions (diffierent module but better ikea pictures ) . Much more clear on how to remove pieces to get to the channel where you will lay your wiring loom.
Steps 1-22 (depending on your vehicle).
Steps 1-12 on the Westfalia manual (more confusing in my opinion)
Good luck, prying plastic has never been a fun job, and I did get a few plastic casualties.

Wiring
Install the wiring kit into your fuse panel and BCM unit.
Westfalia's manual is sufficient for this part.
This will be for installing into a US Golf or JSW.
-It doesn't show it but removing the panel under the dash, removing the cluster and headlight switch will give you better access to the fuse panel and the bcm.
give yourself room.

BCM
Steps 21-27
This part didn't need the depinning tool. just a small screwdriver to press the pins out. Take the pins out, plug them into the wiring kit, then plug the wiring kit into the bcm.
BCM says bn for brown but I'd say my module was more of a tan yellow color. Far right BCM.

Fuse Panel
Steps 28-34
28 release the fuse panel. pull it through the lower section of the dash so you have access to the rear. remove the rear cover.
29-30. release the purple lock that keeps all the pins in place. Moves the purple lock 1-2mm out of the panel.
31. plug the separated wiring harness pins rd rd/bk rd/bu into #43/44/45 of the panel
32. plug the female 20 into the "upper" section 22-27 male connector.
33. plug thewiring harness wire connector with three wires rd rd/bk rd/bu into the lower 43/44/45 section of the panel (thus giving the fuse on the front side of the panel a connection.
34. look at the front of the panel for fuse #4. Is it there? Great That means we are still working on a golf or jsw. take it out and go to step 35-36 (this is telling you to look at the rear for the green and black pin attached to #4 You can also see the connector is with the bk/bu wire is still unplugged.
35-36. depin the bk/gr wire that is attached to this #4 slot. Good luck! place the bk/bu wire from the connector into this slot. place the bk/gr wire into the "top" of the connector.
37 skip
38 relock the purple bit to close the fuse panel up and keep the wires in place (this seems silly, as those pins arent coming out on their own if you depinners know what I mean!)
39. add the 15A fuses to the front of the panel at #43/44/45
40. 5A fuse into #4
41-42 put it all back together close it up.
*optional* if you are installing the accessory kit. Use https://www.westfalia-automotive.com/fileadmin/pdf/e_anlagen/321/e321535391105-06.pdf
you are pretty much plugging in a fuse at the module end of your harness, and tracing the yellow and orange wiring to your fuse box area. Then that yellow wire will go through the firewall and be plugged into a connector that has a hot wire to attach to your battery block. Orange wire attaches to IGN in the dash.
61-63 place all your interior bits back in. How many extra screws do you have? Ha!
Plug your battery back in, attach VCDS.
CAN Gateway > installation list > 69 Trailer and save.
Then go to the gateway list
Your auto scan will probably show some different codes because of the battery disconnect. I looked over the list and cleared them. Do at your own discretion but they should all make sense.
Here is sandmansans quote on VCDS coding.
Next is VCDS:
**Make sure you do an auto-scan before making any changes and save it!! I didn't, but I wasn't scared much of of the codes I needed to clear***
Step 1
Open up auto scan and click gateway installation list. Believe it or not the car will now recognize that you have the module installed but that it's not activated/registered yet. You will have a few malfunctions showing up. They are related to the unregistered module and your dimmer switch being disconnected.
Picture: https://app.box.com/embed/preview/jz...cy0juwdaq267ns
Step 2:
You will open up the can gateway and go to installation list.
Step 3: Scroll down and look for the check box for #69 labeled trailer. Check this box and click save.
Step 4: go back to the auto scan page and click gateway installation again. You should now see that the trailer module is recognized, but we are not done yet!
Step 5: Open the trailer module and go to coding -07
Once there go to line 1 and change that to North America coding (Change to 3) and line 3 to 2. Line 3 should already by default be set to this.
Now you can re-assemble everything. After wards go back into VCDS do a scan, save it and then clear it. You should no longer have any codes.

CONGRATS you now have Euro style trailer harness capabilities, which do in fact include T-ESP!!!

Check your module list and you should see a 69 Trailer at the end. click on that.
Go to Long Coding . Does it state ROW or NAR? Change long coding bit to NAR and save it. Did it save? This is the place where your module issues could fail. Mine was having issues because of a bad wire install. Traced it back to this. Checked VCDS and it saved the second time around.
Plug your trailer in and see if trailer lights are out, and if it's engaging with the system. Good to go? Even though you didn't install a converter the brake and turn signal are able to separate from each other with this module installed.

Make your 13pin euro to 7 way flat 13 pin 7 way flat
This is the 7 wires going into the euro plug:
12g Blue wire2:2 this is the electric brake wire on your plug going to the brake signal#6. Now how to get the controller connected to this is the question. may need to cut fog light #2 wire at fuse panel and tap controller in there
12g White wire1:3 slot Ground
12g black wire4:9 12v supply
12g yellow wire7:8 reverse lighting (don't have a way to use reverse lights yet, but could utilize this later on)
18g green wire6:4 right turn signal (and brakes)
18g yellow wire5:1 left turn signal (and brakes)
18g brown wire3:5 tail lights (this shows as RH tail, but reality is your "tails or clearance lights" is the whole trailer)
10 is the accessory kit (yellow wire you laid down with the module loom). this slot could be used, but you'd have to sacrifice the reverse lights if that's not working on your trailer.

Make your 13 pin to 4 way flat
white wire:3 or 13 but some 4 ways don't even need the ground, mine came right off I believe.
green wire:4 right turn signal (and brakes)
yellow wire:1 left turn signal (and brakes)
brown wire:5 tail lights (this shows as RH tail, but reality is your "tails or clearance lights" is the whole trailer)

(brake controller info here when I have it confirmed)

Accessories
Air lift 80753 airbagsfor rear springs. Easy install after removing lower control arm bolt. TTY, bolt
Dometic dm2912 Milenco grand aero 3 towing mirrors
Aspherical mirrors left 7M3857521F and right 7M4857522D

Pull your trailer. my 1974 12" shasta trailer.


Use these threads if I didn't make sense and you want to engulf yourself in towbar talk and not blame me for missing something.

Sandmansans 2014 Jetta trailer module install
Gjas18 golf install
Vw_leadfoot towbar hitch install
Vw_leadfoot wiring install (his custom install)
More talk
 
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gmcjetpilot

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Location
Memphis TN
TDI
2010 JSW TDI DSG Matalic Grey
CONGRATS you now have Euro style trailer harness capabilities, which do in fact include T-ESP!!!

Make your 13 pin to 4 way flat
white wire:3 or 13 but some 4 ways don't even need the ground, mine came right off I believe.
green wire:4 right turn signal (and brakes)
yellow wire:1 left turn signal (and brakes)
brown wire:5 tail lights (this shows as RH tail, but reality is your "tails or clearance lights" is the whole trailer)

I am ready to wire my 13 pin Euro to flap 4 pin. Where do the brakes come in? The 13 brake pin is #6. You don't wire wire brake lights.
I have one of those isolator plugs, that lets you wire the brake wire into 4 pin plug, but I would love not having to use it. Is the Ross-Tech
able to program the trailer to do brake and turn combo?

Last what is "T-ESP". Is that trailer brakes and some kind of stability function? Doubt I will pull anything with brakes, but good to know.
 
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kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
There's no need for the 3-2 converter or any brake wire. The module automatically transmits the brake signal to your tail lights (turn signals). Running tails and the tail goes brighter during a brake. That's why the westy is the besty.

T-ESP is the stability function /thingamajigger that tells the vehicle the trailer is swaying . Applies pressure to ABS/brakes as necessary.
 

Jedadiah

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Location
Central Kentucky
TDI
Former: '15 Passat TDI SE 6M, '15 Golf S 6M and '10 JSW
If you recode an oem or Westfalia module to NAR, it combines the brake and turn signals through the original turn signal outputs (wires 1 and 4), so that it functions like it should in the US. A brake signal is still sent out on wire six. I'm using this output for the brake controller signal wire on my car.

I just wired up a fully functional US 7way on my car using a 7 pin Westfalia harness.
I repinned the module to get a reverse light output(exit connector wire 2 into 3)and ran the electric brake output from my brake controller and the 12v accessory wire along side of the Westfalia harness. I'll get my diy posted on this site as soon as I finish it. As the OP here knows, it takes a while to write a good diy :)

I'm glad to see there are others still improving their TDIs and not selling them back.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
I'll definitely like to see how you used the Westfalia harness in conjunction with the brake controller. Keep me updated and I can change some of my info regarding the 7 way plug. #9 was giving out 12v to the trailer for one single solitary indoor light. I know #6 on the 13 pin was giving out a brake signal, as I mistakenly hooked it up to my tail lights and all my clearance lights would turn on when I tapped the brake =)

I have a breakaway switch that's not working (Bargman, probably original) so, I just need to put in time to make a controller work. If I don't have to lay down wire again, that would be great.

Know of a good controller that isn't as expensive as the Tekonsha P3? Something around $50-100 would be great. RedBarron makes it sound as if his system rarely turns on the electric brakes on his Scamp, in regular non emergency towing.


P.S. yes editing and re-editing multiple days to get it just right takes some definite time
 

Jedadiah

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Location
Central Kentucky
TDI
Former: '15 Passat TDI SE 6M, '15 Golf S 6M and '10 JSW
My brake controller is run separately from my Westfalia wiring. The only connection they have is that I'm using the brake output from pin 6 as the signal to the red wire on the controller. I've heard that tapping the wires under the dash can be intermittent, and knew the power to the brake lights wouldn't be. I wasn't sure there would still be a signal until I hooked everything up. I'm pulling the power for my controller from the fuse box.

I ran three wires with my Westfalia harness to the back of the car. 2 are from the brake controller: the blue wire to power the trailer brakes, which never touches the Euro wiring, and a red signal wire, which installs into pin 6 on the euro socket with the wire from the Westfalia module. The euro socket is in my trunk next to the spare tire. I also ran a black hot wire from my fuse block, which also never touches the euro wiring. The brake wire and 12v wire are connected directly to this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BGHV6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the other wires of the pollack harness are wired to the correct pins of a trailer end Euro 7 pin plug. I drilled a hole in my rear valence and mounted the US plug. The metal mounting bracket for the plug is inside the bumper to sure it up. I bought a new bolt to replace the one that is now too long in this picture.
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My brake controller is a Prodigy P2. From my research, it seems that it has everything the P3 has except a fancy display. I still need to add brakes to my trailer to see how well it works. Everything powers on like it's supposed to, so I assume it should work well.
 
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kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Ok, Thanks bud!

Mine actually has brakes that I have zero information on. I guess it just receives an electric signal to some actuator around the drum.... Who knows when those were last working/serviced. I'll need to dig into that...

Might try this cheap controller. Just don't know what the benefit is in spending more for a controller unless someone is in the know.

From looking at this manual
https://assets.curtmfg.com/masterlibrary/51110/installsheet/CME_51110_INS.PDF

blue wire from controller should go to #2 13pin/trailer side#6 7 way plug. . (I would have to cut the connection to fog lights, and use this wire for blue brake controller. That's if it terminates at fuse panel, hopefully not at module in quarter panel) power electric brakes
red wire tap the #6 pin/wire on the back of the euro plug or find it on the harness that terminates by fuse panel. brake signal
black wire from controller to battery positive but go through a 30amp automatic circuit breaker. 12v+
white wire from controller to battery negative. ground

I could tap the two wires by the fuse panel and not have to run any wire down the length of the car again that would be great.
 

Jedadiah

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 17, 2010
Location
Central Kentucky
TDI
Former: '15 Passat TDI SE 6M, '15 Golf S 6M and '10 JSW
The less expensive controllers work with a time delay instead of sensing how hard you are braking. I bought my P2 for $90, which isn't bad for what it can do.

I just posted my trailer wiring install as well. You will probably need to run the blue wire from the controller to the trunk, and I actually ran the red wire there as well, since I didn't want to try and tap any of the really thin brake signal wires under the dash. I had also read that Touregs and Tiguans have problems with the brake signal being intermittent when tapping those wires. They suggest running some kind of relay. Tiguans use the same module that we both have installed in our cars, so I thought I might experience something similar, so I'm getting the brake signal from the module exit connector instead.
You would have no need to run a 12v power wire like I did, because your 13pin set up already has a 12v output.

Since you have a 13 pin plug, you could run the brake control wire to pin12 on your socket which I believe is empty on all 13pin set ups. You could then wire up a US 7way adapter. Mine's living in my trunk, but yours wouldn't have to.
 
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sandmansans

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Location
NJ/PA
TDI
2014 Jetta
Great write up and thanks for the shout out! Glad I could pay it forward and help someone else out.
Happy trailering!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Thanks for the writeup as well. My Golf took a $hit (TB lost some teeth, so we're looking at a head rebuild and probably a new camshaft while I'm at it), while I was towing 1500 pounds of feed to boot. I was stranded for 5 hours with the trailer until my mother drove my Jetta to pick me up (and I got to drive back home with the hazards on, since I didn't have trailer brakes or lighting, just the hitch). With that said, I just ordered my module from PF Jones (stayed up late so I could call them and confirm they're sending the LHD module, which they show as 305329300113). Also ordered a 13 pin plug and a 4 pin harness (figured I'd cut the harness and then just wire it into the 4 pin connector, which goes to my existing 7 pin adapter that's on the bumper).

So as I understand it, pin 6 can be used as the brake signal trigger wire? As for brake controllers, I have the Prodigy P3 on 3 vehicles. Yes, it's a little pricey at $130, but I prefer the peace of mind knowing exactly what voltage it's sending, and if it's working or not. The only complaint is that some of the units have a sticky left side bottom button. Other than that, no complaints. Amazon sells it a bit cheaper than etralier.com, btw.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Never installed the brake controller so I cannot confirm the brake signal. From controller wire tracing thorough the body of your golf should happen at the same time as your install of your westfalia harness. Then just find an empty spot in your 13 pin and your 7 way.

Yeah that's puddingstone.
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
Never installed the brake controller so I cannot confirm the brake signal. From controller wire tracing thorough the body of your golf should happen at the same time as your install of your westfalia harness. Then just find an empty spot in your 13 pin and your 7 way.
And alas, this install didn't happen, as PF Jones sent me the module for an Audi A1 (not even closely related). They acknowledged they screwed up when I called them yesterday morning, and are sending the right module free of charge.

On a side note, I do have to say that this car pulls and even stops pretty good without brakes (although I will manually activate my brake controller if I need to stop in a pinch). Drove out to CA with an almost empty trailer, and drove back with the trailer + payload being around 1500-ish pounds. Amazingly, I didn't get stopped for only having very dim turn signals (no other lights).

Yeah that's puddingstone.
I knew it! I spent a lot of time there growing up, being San Dimas was my hometown. I was actually just in San Dimas and Pomona last week.
 

FlipOne513

Active member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Location
Tucson
TDI
2012 Jetta Sportwagen
Sorry to bring this back from the dead. I’m about to install a westfalia hitch on my 2012 JSW. So if I’m just towing a trailer for my dirt bikes and side by side I can just use the 7 pin harness and still be able to activate T-ESP in Vag Com. I just cant justify paying $225 for the 13 pin harness if i dont need it. The $190 for shipping is already hard to swallow.
 

sandmansans

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Location
NJ/PA
TDI
2014 Jetta
Sorry to bring this back from the dead. I’m about to install a westfalia hitch on my 2012 JSW. So if I’m just towing a trailer for my dirt bikes and side by side I can just use the 7 pin harness and still be able to activate T-ESP in Vag Com. I just cant justify paying $225 for the 13 pin harness if i dont need it. The $190 for shipping is already hard to swallow.
No module, no t-esp or any of the other features

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

nicklockard

Torque Dorque
Joined
Aug 15, 2004
Location
Arizona
TDI
SOLD 2010 Touareg Tdi w/factory Tow PCKG
I'm so wishing I could activate T-ESP on my BMW 335d, but from my research, US cars weren't coded for it or cannot be. PFJones rep laughed at me for asking.
So I tried to compensate with my selection of hardware and electronics options. (See my towing post)

Part of my strategy was to buy a smart brake controller--Tuson DirecLink 200E OBD-based smart brake controller (always proportional to TV brake pedal % with user-selected biasing values for highway speeds & for slow speeds). I combined it with Hayes Swaymaster electronic anti-sway and mechanical anti-sway (Hensley).

Really loving the excellent tutorial collection thread!
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Sorry to bring this back from the dead. I’m about to install a westfalia hitch on my 2012 JSW. So if I’m just towing a trailer for my dirt bikes and side by side I can just use the 7 pin harness and still be able to activate T-ESP in Vag Com. I just cant justify paying $225 for the 13 pin harness if i dont need it. The $190 for shipping is already hard to swallow.
Sorry bud, you’ll need to justify the purchase if you want it.
 

FlipOne513

Active member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Location
Tucson
TDI
2012 Jetta Sportwagen
So I need to get the 13 pin with the harness then buy a separate module? Sorry I'm a little confused.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Buy the 13 pin vw dedicated kit under the drop down menu to get a small combo discount.

321600300113 LHD 13 pin dedicated electrics kit

321600300153 RHD 13 pin dedicated electrics kit (this is what PFJones shows as the part number but ask in your order notes for the Left Hand Drive kit. This is still usable but requires more coding and has extra wiring loom to stuff into your interior. They sent this to me mistakenly but I still was able to install it.)
Kit has the module
 

sandmansans

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2013
Location
NJ/PA
TDI
2014 Jetta
I'm so wishing I could activate T-ESP on my BMW 335d, but from my research, US cars weren't coded for it or cannot be. PFJones rep laughed at me for asking.
So I tried to compensate with my selection of hardware and electronics options. (See my towing post)

Part of my strategy was to buy a smart brake controller--Tuson DirecLink 200E OBD-based smart brake controller (always proportional to TV brake pedal % with user-selected biasing values for highway speeds & for slow speeds). I combined it with Hayes Swaymaster electronic anti-sway and mechanical anti-sway (Hensley).

Really loving the excellent tutorial collection thread!
Should've got a V-DUB [emoji41] [emoji14]

All kidding aside, t-esp comes from the trailer module which is then able to communicate with the BCM which sends signal to the abs and such to correct trailer sway. None of the u.s. vw come coded or able to do this by factory, but with installing the module and then pairing it to the BCM via vcds you're then able to unlock the feature. I guess my question to you is, does anyone make a vcds style interface for bmw?
If so, I'd take a chance and try it.
Or at the least ask around on those forums.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

pkhoury

That guy with the goats
Joined
Nov 30, 2010
Location
Medina, TX
TDI
2013 JSW, 2003 Jetta Ute, 2 x 2002 Golf, 2000 Golf
I was surprised to see this thread resurrected. I'm moving my towing install from my 2010 JSW to my 2013 JSW (which has a 6 speed standard).

So to make sure I read this right (since I didn't do the fuse panel and BCM wiring the first time around), depinning is primarily on the fuse panel? Should I have any difficulty removing BCM pins (from the 2010 to the 2013)? I already have the module disconnected and first things first, I'll work on getting the wiring from the module to the bumper done first.

An update for my own towing. My primary trailer is a Big Tex custom built 14x5 tandem axle, rated for 6000GVWR (I usually don't go more than 3500 pounds total, though). Tekonsha P3 brake controller and the car handles just fine (speaking for the 2010 with DSG).


To FlipOne513: I have the 13 pin module. It's my understanding that this module is the one you need if you want to use trailer brakes. I don't remember exactly how it's wired up, but I'm pretty sure I have a lead that goes from one of the wires on the 13 pin connector back to the brake controller as a trigger line, and then I have the blue brake output from the brake controller coming back again to my 7 pin round. IIRC, the 7 pin Euro connector didn't have the same capabilities. My philosophy - if you can afford it, even if you don't need it nnow, get the 13 pin module so you don't regret it later.
 
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