Timing Belt First Attempt

wjfinnigan

Active member
Joined
May 19, 2011
Location
Phx, AZ
TDI
2001 NB
I'm about to go for my first ever timing belt change. Any helpful tips would be appreciated. 2001 1.9 TDI new beetle.
 

db252

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Location
CA
TDI
2012 Golf 2005 Jetta 2003 Jetta 2001 Golf
Good luck. I do all of mine plus friends. Make sure you have all the appropriate tools and take your time. Also hope you have or have access to vcds to adjust your timing. Replace all stretch bolts that should have come with a reputable set. If something concerns you stop and ask here before proceeding. Be prepared as best you can for anything such as stripped bolts, threads, missing things, etc. Do you have replacement coolant/distilled water? Torque wrenches? A magnetic tool helps to hold on to bolts that you think you might drop or do drop. Support the engine properly. TAKE YOUR TIME.
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
Follow the instuction as mentioned. Allow extra/plenty time for the first time.
Buy a complete TB kit from one of the vendors associated with this site. They are high quality, complete, and a great value. DO NOT buy one off ebay w/o knowing the exact source and reputation of the supplier. There is a lot of junk being sold out there.
 

aymen_a22

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Location
Bournemouth, UK
TDI
Seat Leon SE TDi 110hp (ASV Code)
I just replaced the timing belt on my Seat Leon 1.9 TDi 110 and unfortunately the new tensioner failed causing the engine to drop a valve and destroy the engine.

I am going to fit a new timing belt to a different engine in the next week or so and I am going to make sure I check everything twice and not rush anything.

It has been an expensive issue to deal with. I recommend paint marking the TDC mark on the flywheel once you have your locks in place (as a rough guide) I also recommend taking plenty of time.

And as said, any slight issues, wait and come on here to get an answer.

Good luck.
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
1. buy a kit from one of our recommended vendors, I think boraparts is in your neck of the woods.You'll also need the special tools and VCDS w/computer interface.
2. read the instructions all the way thru, you'll get a good idea of the process and the additional tools you need to acquire
 

jettawreck

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 2, 2004
Location
Northern Minnesota-55744
TDI
2001 Jetta and 2003 Jetta
I am trying to pull up this link for info on doing a tb job but it dosent open

"make sure to lock everything before removing. Make sur the cam lobes are up and make sure tensioner tab is in the right place. Here is a sweet link http://pics2.tdiclub.com/gwillie/VW/...iming_Belt.pdf
Good luck "
I've used the link often and linked it in many such posts, but now it won't open for me either. Maybe the site is updating the article.
Try going to the TDIClub home page. In top banner click articles. Scroll down the "TDI How tos" to A4 TB change and see if it loads. It currently won't for me. It did a few days ago. Perhaps I need to update Adobe reader??
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
If you are following the article liked above, be aware that the timing instructions are incorrect. They are kind of a mixture of the AHU and ALH methods.

The correct way to adjust the ALH is to loosen the three sprocket bolts on the pump and move the pump SHAFT clockwise to advance.

Also they say to rotate the engine using the cam sprocket. You should rotate the engine using a socket on the crank bolt.

Be sure you are getting the pump pinned correctly. Use a mirror. There is the proper hole behind the slotted hub the sprocket mounts on and there is a void to the right of the hole where the pin can go but it'll be loose.
 

crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
cant find the torque value for the two small rollers and the large roller, i recieved all my parts form metalman, i got the new bolt for the larg roller and a nut for the one small roller but i dont see one for the top roller. can it be reused and do you use locktite on any of these bolts
 

LNXGUY

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Location
Barrie, Ont, Canada
TDI
'05 Jetta TDI Wagon
No need to locktite them... I like to snug them up and give them a bit more and that's about it... Top roller re-uses the bolt.. It's not TTY.

Also rotating the engine via the cam sprocket is fine, just don't use a giant wrench on the bolt.. Use the proper tools to rotate it via the sprocket itself.

If you've locked everything down properly before removing everything, you're timing should be almost as good once you get everything buttoned back up.. If you have to make timing adjustments, that's done very easily with the IP sprocket.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
I just did my first TB today - ALL day (well, only about 8 hours of it). It's amazing how slowly things progress when you're not sure what things all the terminology refers to and where/how to get at everything.
Or reading "as you can tell, there's no way that mounting bracket can come out without removing the engine from the car" shortly after you've removed said mounting bracket.

D'oh! Thing is, it was only about 5 minutes of jiggling around and suddenly it came out; unfortunately, it was well over an hour to get it back in.

Question: Having gone brain dead after I finally got that mounting bracket back in, I mis-read the instructions (and turned off my brain) and torqued the 16mm bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the engine block to 44ft.lbs + ¼ turn. Oops!
Upon further review, they're only supposed to be 33ft.lbs.

So - thankfully, I didn't snap them off. I dialled them back and re-tightened to 33. Is that OK, or are they cooked and gotta replace with new ones?
In the interim (I might need the car for a couple days before I can get to VW, and VW isn't open Sundays anyway), do we think it'd be OK to drive it for a couple days as is?

Anyway, I was pleased that the car started when I turned the key - so it's going in the "win" column, despite the flagrant foul in the last two minutes.
 

crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
I am still in the middle of the job, well all the old parts are off, starting to put it all back together with all kit bought form trusted vender on this sight, I keep looking at the parts even though there INA rollers but they say made in slovkavage (spelling?) they all look good but the top roller is not as thick as the old one or the lowers smaller one it looks turned down, is this how they are? also when I locked the cam in place and I locked the pump in place I checked my crank mark and it is a full tooth off, so I guessing I need to line it back up to the dead center mark and lock the crank then proceed with the belt job also what is a good setting for the inj pump when reading it on vcds, i know most like it slightly advanced what what is slightly. Thanks
 
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LNXGUY

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Location
Barrie, Ont, Canada
TDI
'05 Jetta TDI Wagon
What was the timing like before you removed everything? Can you see the timing mark on the flywheel when the cam/ip are locked down?
 

crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
Yes it was in the window just one tooth off I was just wanted to be sure that it needs to be on the tdc mark when I tighten everything up I figure it was off a tooth due to the orignal belt strech. What about the INA rollers made in solkavage(spelled wrong)
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
You're saying it was off a flywheel tooth on the old belt, right?

Yes, it should be on TDC when you torque the cam bolt.

Lotsa parts are made in the old East Bloc countries. Don't know why the diameter is different.

As for turning the engine with the cam, when you do this you are putting tension on the slack side of the belt. You can see the tensioner give. The belt can slip if you turn it too hard.

The belt is intended to turn the cam and pump at half crank speed, not to turn the crank against compression at two-to-one ratio. A lot of guys do it, doesn't mean it's correct.

Also, one of the reasons for turning the engine over is to settle the belt and verify timing and tensioner setting. By turning the cam you're putting slack in the tension side. The belt should be tight between the cam, pump and crank when you check the timing.
 

LNXGUY

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Location
Barrie, Ont, Canada
TDI
'05 Jetta TDI Wagon
Don't worry about the mark on the flywheel being one tooth off, I thought you were talking about the crank, lol!

You can easily make small timing changes once everything buttoned up by loosening the 3 bolts on the IP sprocket and either rotating it towards the front of the car (Timing advances) or moving it towards the firewall (Timing retards)..

Although you'll mostly likely be just fine once you tighten everything down as KLXD mentioned.
 

crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
so what your saying is that i need to bring the crank timming back a tooth so to speak, back to where the tdc mark lines up wiht the pointer in the window of the tranny while the cam lock is in place then tighten every up
 

LNXGUY

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 10, 2004
Location
Barrie, Ont, Canada
TDI
'05 Jetta TDI Wagon
No, it will most likely straighten itself out once you tighten everything down and tension the belt...

You'll drive yourself crazy trying to get the flywheel mark dead on.. One tooth isn't going to do much at all. Once it's running, get VCDS on it and check your timing. If you want to make adjustments just retard or advance the pump sprocket a bit.
 

KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
so what your saying is that i need to bring the crank timming back a tooth so to speak, back to where the tdc mark lines up wiht the pointer in the window of the tranny while the cam lock is in place then tighten every up
That's what I'm saying. You do have the cam sprocket loose, right?

Order should be:

New belt on.

Pump and cam locked, both sprockets loose.

Adjust tensioner.

Move crank back to TDC if it moved.

Torque cam and pump, use a tool to hold the sprocket while torquing. Don't rely on the locking tools.

Pull the tools, rotate the engine and verify the timing.
 

crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
I haven't tightned anything yet it was off a tooth before I started. So what i need to do before i tighten every thing up, is make sure the crank is lined up on tdc while the cam lock is in position, also what is the torque for the inj pump bolts
 
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crobinson16

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Location
Spring Run PA
TDI
2001 TDI 5SPD jetta
finding two different torque specs for the larger roller one says 30lbs plus a quarter turn one says 40 lbs plus a quarter turn and also what is the torque for the bolts that go thorugh the motor mount into the block finding two different torques one say 44lbs plus a qurter turn one says 33lbs , i am looking between brivebiwire and my turbodiesel
 
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