B4 96 Passat Fuel Injection pump is leaking HOW TO
Whew!
OK folks, I've seen Leonard Harvieux in a new light. Today, we changed out the seals on my injector pump, both upper and lower on the Quantity Adjuster portion of my Bosch VE-4.
Harvieux deserves all the credit for setting up a Great indexing system for putting things back in place.
Enclosed are some pics.
This is a top down view of your injector pump, hidden underneath that noise deadening black TDI cover. Note the unusual proprietary Bosch bolt head in the lower left side of the photo. It requires a special socket.
Harvieux, goes and sprays the lower left hand side of the pump with degreaser, wipes all residue and oil/goo off, then he takes an indelible black marker and marks all around the left front corner. The purpose of this is to control the amount of left and right lateral position when repositioning the Quantity Adjuster body.
Here is another view from the top.
This screw that holds the electrical cable needs to be removed before you start undoing the bolts on the top and bottom sections of the Quatity Adjuster to replace the seals.
After replacing the seals, first the upper seal gets changed out, then the lower seal, paying attention to where the "ears" are on the new gaskets, loosely tighten all the bolts after you have placed the lower section EXACTLY back where you marked it in black indelible ink. If you see fresh metal between the black, the QA MUST be moved ever so slightly towards the pump pulley to remove the gap of metal showing.
Get it in position, and snug the bolts up without moving the QA housing. Be very careful and do not lose the washers on the bolts.
It is important to fix leaking pumps almost as soon as you discover the leaks. Failure to do so can cause fuel damage to the hoses to the water pump directly underneath the Injector Pump.
Harvieux replaced the QA body back on my pump, and upon checking the figs on the VAG COM, I was flowing at 4.6 mg per pump stroke, which is a middle of the road position.
This is an example of hoses that have seen too much seepage of diesel fuel and are bound to fail soon, and in dire need of replacement. Note the bulges and swelling just behind the clamps.
This hose T will need replacing also.
The final adjustment muyst be done with a warmed up motor and a VAG-COM to check your quantities. See the "Hammer Mod" for fine tuning the placement of the body while the VAGCOM is on and your motor is running, then snug the bolts up and clean up your tools.
WARNING ! Under no circumstances should you start the motor up if there is a metal gap showing between your index mark of black ink and the Q. A. Lower Body. The body will be located too close to the pump head, and out of range of the Q A and can cause a runaway motor which might be unstoppable and result in destroying your engine. If you see a metal gap showing reposition the Q A minisculely closer to the pulley/timiong belt side of the pump to remedy this.
After you have snugged the Q A body loosely, go and pull the return line form your #1 injector, located nearest the timing belt. Attach a vacuum pump to the return line, and pump up the pump to create a vacuum and get fuel into your injector pump body, as well as get all the air out of the fuel line system. Doing this will save your starter and about 10 minutes of cranking. Activate the vacuum pump until all the air bubbles air purged from the lines and you are sucking pure fuel.
Please understand this.... Harvieux or myself take no responsibility in your understanding or lack therof of these instructions and and pictures. You are underwriting your own liablity in using these pictues and information. This is provided as a knowledge base for people with very high mechancial inclinations and abilities.
And a Thank You to Harvieux for sharing this useful maintenance tip to get things just right. You have to have replaced quite a few seals to be able to put the QA back on and get it right the first time, without the QA needing any adjustment. We did confirm this with a VAG COM reading.